Hello, I new here. I’m having problem with my wife’s
2003 Caravan. It won’t crank and no start. I was told to replaced fuel pump and filter.
I had it replaced. It cranked and started and it died when trying to go forward about 100 feet. Now it still won’t crank no start. Starter will crank when I jump the starter relay for about 2 or 3 seconds.
The check engine does not come on. My code reader & my son’s reader shows no codes. I need help what to look for please.
Thanks for a Reply.
I was thinking fuel cutoff switch (then found it probably doesn’t have one). First question, though… do you hear the pump running then cut off, when you first power it up? If it worked for a minute, something might be shutting power to the pump. I think the bottom answer (in this link) addresses that problem.
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t26569571-reset_button_dodge_caravan_fuel_pump
That interrupt is supposed to activate in case of an accident.
Did you replace the starter relay? U anm a little ouzzled by your jumping the telay for 2-3 seconds. Do you mean the when you do that it will only crank that long.
Just who was it that told you to replace the pump and filter? There is no way either could stop a car from cranking.
Some of the things that could stop a car from cranking, Neutral safety switch, bad starter or solenoid, bad battery cables or connections, bad ignition switch or wiring.
Yes, I replaced starter relay with the other relays and it didn’t crank. The engine will crank jumping starter #30 & #87 at fuse box with key turned on. I replaced fuel pump relay with the others too.
My wife ran out of gas just before all this stall/dying started, had to tow it home. I was told the trash was plugging the filter and pump by an old neighbor who works on cars. I may not have told him it would not crank.
So I had them replaced. I understand what you are saying parts had nothing to do with not cranking engine. So maybe the ignition switch is bad? Sir, how do I test it? Do I need to replace it? Would it show a code if it was bad?
The battery is less than 6 Months old. I used jump cables and still no crank. The neutral safety switch, how do I test it? Do I just replace it? I do have a test light probe. I just need a direction to what to check or replace.
Thanks oldtimer for your kind reply. I’m all ears.
No, I don’t hear anything. What would be shutting power to pump? A bad ignition switch? There is no codes and no check engine light staying on. I have swapped starter relay with same type relays. And swapped the fuel pump relay with several others with the same numbers. Any direction to what to check or replace? I do have a test light probe.
Thanks mperry for your kind reply.
Check the link. It explains better than I.
Normally, when in an accident, the fuel cut off trips (line a breaker switch). It kills power to avoid fuel squirting all over. Apparently Dodge uses this different method to kill the pump. I understand, without fuel pressure, another switch won’t activate, so you can’t crank. (At least that was part of one article.) If that part goes bad, fuel pump won’t run, so no cranking. That’s why I asked about the fuel pump. If it’s pumping, it points to the other switch being bad.
I’m no expert, but we had similar problems. The dealer fixed that one under warranty, in our 1999. I have no idea why this would happen after running out of fuel. I doubt there would be air in the injector rail if it ran.
This is the note… it sounds like what the dealer told Mar.
You have an Automatic Shut Down Relay or “ASD Relay” not so much a “switch.” The ASD relay inside the power distribution center which is under the hood on the left corner of the engine compartment. Under the lid is a legend that will pinpoint it’s location in said box. I would look at this if your having problems with the fuel pump. Should you need to replace the pump the tank must be dropped for this vehicle.
Neither the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch would have a code because there are no sensors monitoring them. The Chrysler beutral safety switches that O have diagnosed are from older years and were combined neutral sagety/backup light switches. That had 4 wires ib a square plug. Jumping one pair of opposite wires would turn on the backup lights the other would jump the neutral safety switch and let the car crank even if the switch was bad, Yours is a combined neutral safety switch.range selector I have no Idea how many wires go to it, I would have to look at it and figure it out.
I don’t know how to tell you how to troubleshoot the ignition switch. I would start by tracing the wires and seeing where they go…\ The ign switch failures I have seen are mechanical in nature.
Ok, I’ll go and swap out the ASD relay with several of the others and see if it will start after each swap. I’ll mark the original relay.
Thank you sir for your kind reply.
Sorry, but Mar was in serious need of coffee (her van), so I got a second hand account. When I got back, the shop manager walked her back to the shop, hooked it up, fixed it, and she was gone. It must have taken 15 to 20 minutes.
You think maybe the neutral safety switch is the next check. Ok, It has a 9 terminals connector according to auto parts store. The problem would be the engine will not start because the computer thinks it’s not in Park or Neutral. I’ll replace it tomorrow, $30. If that is not the case, then i’ll get another ignition switch.
Thank you oldtimer. I’ll post the results.
Have you checked the battery and starter?
The positive and negative terminal connections on the battery (they should be clean and tight) and the battery itself. (Jumper cables properly connected though should give you a crank if the battery is the issue).
Also, a starter that needs to be replaced.
Both of those can cause no crank.
Yes, battery is 6 Months old. I replaced the starter a year ago. Headlights are bright. It started after I replaced the fuel pump and filter then it died while moving forward about 100 feet. Now it won’t crank. I jump the starter relay and it will crank but won’t start up with key on.
Thanks for your reply. Any help is appreciated.
So you can get it to crank signifying that the starter works.
It happened right after you replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. Maybe you installed the fuel pump incorrectly or the wrong one for that vehicle. Anywhere there is a hose from on the fuel pump itself through the fuel filter they have to be clamped tight on each the end or you’ll lose fuel pressure.
When I installed a new fuel pump it had like a 3 inch hose on the fuel pump itself and on one of the ends I used a small low pressure clamp that came with it and it caused engine performance issues. It would take like 3-5 extra seconds to start. Eventually I found that was the issue, replaced it with a small screw clamp and the issue went away.
Something could have become unplugged also that would cause it not to start.
It will not crank with the key, but it will at relay. So you need to check your primary circuit at relay. 86 should have 12 volts when cranking, and 85 is PCM ground. Don’t trust an internet stranger on doing this test. Do some research. Any time you start testing things that involve the PCM a mistake can lead to damage. It is safe to test for 12 volts at 86 while key is in the crank mode. I suspect you will not. This means you have a fault between the ignition switch and relay. The ignition switch also completes circuit to the fuel pump when in the run and cranking position. The first suspect is the ignition switch.
Before tossing a bunch of unnecessary parts at it- start simple.
Verify battery connections are clean and tight.
Verify connections of wires at the starter.
Check battery voltage (a 6 month old battery could be weak for a variety of reasons.)
Check battery voltage when trying to crank.
Since the trouble happened while you were trying to move the vehicle just after it started up normally makes me think the problem is due to a blown fuse and/or the security system isn’t happy. Did you check all the fuses under the hood and in the dash to make sure none of them are blown out?
The fuses are all okay. The van has no security system.
Thank you kindly for your reply.
The battery connections are clean and tight.
Verify connections of wires at the starter.
Check battery voltage. I took the newer battery out of my Dodge truck and put it in the Van. Still it is a no crank.
I also swapped the relays with starter and fuel pump, Horn & Wipers.
I’m checking now the neutral safety switch and next the ignition switch.
Thank you eddo for your reply. I will be all ears.