You learn more from failures the successes. Takes a big man or girl to tell the whole world here.
I was putting in a new half shaft and pulled the inner cv joint apart. Not much to do except go buy another one.
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You really should have had this done by a pro.
I’m also worried about the face that I forgot to set the car off to dead center and turned the right cam shaft with the crank turned to TDC.
I did this that last time I took the belt off and left the Allen wrench in.
So I’m concerned the valves may have been bent. I want to think the valves are not bent but that’s what I thought about whether the belt being stretched out .
What I learned is that I’m forgetful, and anxious. I have to learn how to be more logical in the situations.
I have to live with the consequences of my choices.
It is highly unlikely that you bent any valves by hand turning the engine. The valves are pretty tough. If you had a valve touch a piston while turning, it would take a lot of torque to keep turning that pulley. You would notice.
Other Toyota engines that I have replace timing belts on, you loosen the tensioner, pull it back from the belt, then stick a nail or pin through a hole or slot to keep the tensioner away from the belt. Do the belt change, then release the pin or nail and tighten the tensioner down so that it doesn’t move. The spring is only there to set the initial tension, it does not do anything when the engine is running, in other words it does not keep tension on the belt.
These belts do not stretch easily. If you didn’t knock any teeth off, then just set the tension properly. If the tensioner can put the proper tension on the belt, then you should be good to go. But if you have any doubts, then get a new belt, it’s much cheaper than replacing the engine if the belt fails.
I’m confident in the belt. It just the arrows on the belt stop lining up with cams once I turn it. It wasn’t doing that.
I dropped the tensioner a few times maybe it’s malfunctioning. About a foot drop.
There isn’t any major damage to the belt maybe a scuff mark or two from rubbing it against crank sprocket when putting it on in.
I don’t what it could make the belt skip it was working perfect. I turned it 720 twice before I made the initial post that I got it on. And your advice worked perfectly.
But reapply belt on after I took it off for no reason it slipped the first time once and it slipped again after I redida again. When I turned it 720. I’m not sure what’s happening.
How do I know if it’s the belt or tensioner?
I’m going to try it again
Once again, once you get everything lined up and properly tensioned and all tools accounted for, you turn the engine twice. Once you turn the engine, the arrows on the belt will NOT line up with the marks on the sprockets and heads/block. You only need to confirm that the marks on the sprockets align with the marks on the heads/block at TDC. You are no longer concerned with the arrows on the belt.
Ok I was under the impression that the belt lines, caMs and crank had to line up at the first 720 revolution.
I caught that you said that it didn’t earlier but I forgot.
So your saying that the belt lines don’t matter once after you turn it? Then why do people say their belt slipped or skipped on google? (I know I’m sounding silly but I really am asking)
If that’s the case then I’m good because my cams and crank line up perfectly every 720 revolution
Look at this logically. Count the number of teeth (cogs) on the belt between the crank pulley mark and the left cam pulley mark, then count the number of cogs from the right cam pulley mark, and finally count the number of cogs between the marks of the two cam pulleys. Are they the same? I’d be really surprised if they were even close.
Also count the number of cogs on one of the cam pulleys, is it the same as the number of cogs between the pulleys? All these number would have to be the same for the arrows on the belt to come back into alignment every other revolution of the engine.
If you turn the engine enough times, eventually they will all align, but just for that one revolution. What ever the number of turns it took will be the number of turns for it to align again. I.e, if it took 26 revolutions to come back into alignment, then they would line up every 26 revolutions.
I said it before but it bears repeating… you have neither the training nor mechanical aptitude for this job. Have it flatbedded to a qualified mechanic to complete this job before you destroy the engine.
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That would apply to me the first time I replaced a timing belt. Well I do have mechanical aptitude, but that came at the cost of a lot of mistakes. Everyone has to learn something new periodically.
Wisdom comes from experience. Experience comes from mistakes.
And this is a 21 year old vehicle with 210,000 miles, I imagine the OP is wanting to save money wherever possible.
I think it’s great OP is attempting a pretty complicated repair on their own. Builds character. But still good idea to not make it any more complicated than it already is. Take photos before removing stuff, draw pencil/paper diagrams where photos inadequate, place witness marks on pulley’s and engine showing alignment at time of removal, etc. Chilton’s/Haynes info should be good enough for this job, but have to realize that (1) manuals contain ambiguities and outright errors, and (2) since these aftermarket sorts of manuals cover more than one model year and engine and condense the info, what they present may not be exactly the correct method for that particular car. Suggest to OP to purchase both the Haynes and Chilton’s, then can compare one to the other, often very helpful in clearing up errors and ambiguities. Didn’t your manual mention to remove spark plugs first?
As far as what’s wrong at this point, seems more likely to be a problem w/tensioner than belt, assuming belt has no obvious visual problems. This job, besides a new belt, usually includes a new tensioner and often a new water pump. OP, are you also replacing those parts?
re the unremoved Allen wrench, happened to be unsticking my kitchen garbage disposal the other day. Involves manually turning it from the bottom w/an Allen wrench. Forgot to remove Allen wrench, turn on disposal for test, “bang bang bang” heard from under the counter … lol …
Ok, one more additional comment. A poster here not long ago was having difficulties with the car’s engine not running correctly, problem was ephemeral, didn’t occur the same way all the time, but engine definitely not working correctly. Poster had replaced a bunch of stuff, nothing replaced fixed it. Poster had car towed to inde shop, who did tests necessary to verify problem was valve timing (as I recall). Poster than had car towed back to their driveway & did the repairs themselves. So no reason to not let a shop help out w/the diagnosis or difficult repairs if that’s what delivers the goods.
You make a good point, but it’s been suggested to the OP more than once that a Haynes manual is not adequate for this job and that he needs either a factory shop manual or an Alldata subscription. Ive seen no evidence that they’ve done either. That indicates to me a lack of willingness to learn. They seem to want someone standing over their shoulder providing step by step instructions. It would be a shame if the OP winds up having to replace the engine.
I think the OP should have installed this tool before removing the timing belt.
Tester
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I agree; Haynes manuals are close to worthless and have mistakes in them which can lead to incorrect procedures and component damage.
Also agreed with Tester about that locking tool. Sub 20 dollars is cheap and tools like that are also needed for many other makes and models of cars.
Years ago (back when $100 was a lot of money), a friend of mine was working on his Isuzu Trooper. He had installed a reman long block from a very reputable local engine shop. He spent 2 days trying to start it but all it would do is spit and sputter and occasionally backfire enough that it blew the muffler. Sounded like it was out of time, even though he verified his firing order and timing marks 3 times.
He called me and said “I’ll pay you $100 if you can get this engine started.” I stopped by on my way home, saw the Haynes manual, looked at the diagram, saw the firing order for the 2.8 engine and recognized that it was wrong (was for the 4.3). Spent 90 seconds swapping wires at the distributor and engine started right up. Loud as hell with the blown exhaust though.
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Update: So far so good. I’m back driving again. Thanks a lot
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Thanks for the update.
One down, one to go. Soon as he puts the coil on we will see if he has to open it up again.
I bought a car with botched timing belt job. Motor ran for a day and then stalled. Owner said bleep it. I retimed motor and it did turn 360-720 just fine but it had zero compression. Every intake valve was bent. Which I discovered when I pulled heads