I recently had to replace my oil pump seal doing so I had to take the timing belt off without getting to much into it or blaming people that helped we didn’t mark the timing belt right and is no longer lined up right. What are my next steps for fixing what I have done and is it even fixable?
Good news, your engine, from what I have read is not an interference engine so no damage should have happened. pull the plugs and rotate the engine until the piston is at its highest point with both valves closed/ That is top dead center , you can put a pencil in the spark plug hole to tell. Then you can rotate the camshafts by hand until the timing marks line up and replace the belt. Read a manual or watch a u-tube video until you understand all the steps. After you have finished, rotate the engine over twice by hand and make sure all the marks line up.
I’m a YouTube mechanic for sure so when you say pull the plugs and rotate the engine do I use a screw driver to do it and do I have to remove the cover to see the pistons. I also want to note the old belt was marked at the top but not the bottom where it sits at zero and the cam shaft is also marked where top dead center was not sure if that helps
Is this 2.2L I4 or 3.0L V6??
Please tell me you are replacing the timing belt (kit w/ water pump) since the belt is already off… ??
Buy a Haynes manual on how to do all this, you are scaring me when you said:
Taken a 50/50 shot here and going with the 2.2L engine…
Not real fond of this guys handling of tools and beating on the top of the piston with the tip of a screw driver, or using a torque wrench as a regular ratchet, but it is more for pictures and a different way to see the cam mark… I like the mirror use my self…
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It is a 2.2 and if I already marked top dead center on the cam shaft does that help at all? just didn’t mark the old belt also already did the 2 full rotations to see if the timing was right which it wasn’t
It is called a timing belt because it is what keeps the timing of the crankshaft to the camshaft… So the crankshaft has to be in time just as much as the camshaft has to, they are timed together…
Did you watch either video?? lol
You have to set the camshaft pulley timing mark to the front cover, you also have to set the crankshaft gear to the engine cover and it is the crankshaft that moves the pistons not the camshaft, the cam operates the opening and closing of the intake & exhaust valves in time with the pistons rotation and they stay in time using either a timing belt such as your engine or a timing chain unlike your engine…
PS: TDC (top dead center) generally refers to the number one piston being at the up most (highest) position in the rotation cycle… The number one piston at TDC is 0 degrees. The cam(s) are timed off of that as well as most anything else if needed…
I highly recommend replacing the timing belt
The oil pump has multiple seals, btw, and I hope you replaced them all
I’ve done this particular job and it is really messy. You only want to do it once every so many years. You want to make sure EVERYTHING under the cover is new, imo
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I didn’t do the rear oil pump to block seal, because it would require at least partially removing the oil pan, and it was put on with RTV. I think that was my mistake.
As far as setting the timing, the plastic cover is what has the TDC mark on it, so put the cover back on the timing belt area and rotate to TDC. TDC for the camshaft might be marked under the valve cover I forget. Anyway, when they are both set correctly, you set up the belt there there is no slack in the forward (crank pulling the cam) direction before you rotate two revolutions. Then you verify if it it may need to be adjusted by a notch. The spring sets the tension and then you tighten the bolt to fix it in place on the back (slack) side. The repair manuals tell you all this.
Mechanic told me a lot of places will get the belt wrong by 1 notch and then fuel economy or performance is bad for the next 90k miles.
Fuel economy and performance would be very bad indeed.