Stuck trying to Change Timing Belt

First priority, you need to have the precise information where the marks are located and what they align to, so there is absolute no ambiguity what the alignment configuration you must achieve is. Auto manufactures don’t make this particularly easy sometimes. I think the reason for that is they want other marks placed on the pulleys and engine to use as part of the engine building process. It’s been quite some time since I did this, but I used white out to put marks on the ribs of the pulleys and extended those to the edge of the pulleys. There were small dots punched (by manufacturer) on the pulley ribs as I recall which were very useful.

You seem to have some disagreement w/a poster here about that. Suggest to resolve that issue before proceeding. Remember w/Haynes & Chilton’s manuals, they cover more than one model year and engine, so the photos they show may not be correct for your particular model year & engine.

You do NOT have an intake cam sprocket and exhaust cam sprocket. You have a left side camshaft pulley and a right side camshaft pulley. The pulleys are on the intake cams. The exhaust cams are gear driven by the intake cams. Unless you remove the cams, they will stay aligned with each other.

You first line up the intake cam pulleys to their respective marks with the crankshaft pulley at least an 1/8 turn from TDC or what ever the book recommends. You don’t want any pistons at TDC while turning the camshafts. Once they are aligned, then turn the crankshaft to TDC.

The new timing belt has arrows that must align with the cam and crank marks. From here it would be best to just follow the instructions on this link.

I might have made a mistake by posting those pictures but I came into this completely understanding where the timing marks are and what should line up with what.

I’m just trying to know how to get my camshafts back to the right marks now that they are off.

Have you checked into a short access to Alldata? I’d trust them a lot more than Haynes.

I’ve been reading posts online and I notice that a guy was talking about that you are fighting pressure when you rotate the crank independently of the shafts.

I’m wondering if the compression and not the valve when I turn the camshafts to re align them

It’s it ok to fight through it out will it now a gasket. I have the spark plugs still in

If you remove the spark plugs, it will be easier to turn the crankshaft and it won’t have that tendency to spring back on you. Align the pulleys first like I said, crank pulley last. Then line up the marks on the belt with the marks on the pulleys starting with the left (engines left not yours) cam pulley first, then down over the idler and up to the right side then down to the crankshaft.

Suggestion, try using some bulldog clips or something similar to hold the belt to the cam pulleys so the belt cannot jump a tooth.

Then release the tensioner. The pulleys may move a little but as long as the marks on the belt line up with the marks on the pulleys, you are good to go. Not, when you do the rotation test, the marks on the belt will no longer line up but as long as the pulleys line up, you are good.

Edit: it looks like you could use a zip tie around the pulley and belt to keep the belt in place, or a piece of electrical tape, as long as you remove them before rotating the engine.

Blockquote You first line up the intake cam pulleys to their respective marks with the crankshaft pulley at least an 1/8 turn from TDC or what ever the book recommends. You don’t want any pistons at TDC while turning the camshafts. Once they are aligned, then turn the crankshaft to TDC.

This is the part in having trouble with. The cams don’t line up at the TDC mark together. I must have spinner them while putting in the new belt. That pencil on the right pulley is pointing to the tick mark on the pulley. That’s way off the left cam shaft the left cam is almost aligned.

(Ignore the lines on the belt I already removed it until I get the CAM pulleys aligned to TDC)

So How do I align the pulleys to then TDC? just turn the bolts will that bend the valves? Also is the pressure I’m feeling the valve or the compression (spark plugs are in)?

Ok that sounds good. I’ll remove the spark plugs and see if that helps

I use a wrench on the crank bolt to rotate it. With the belt off, I just put a choke hold around the pulley with my hands and rotate it into position. Just make sure the crank isn’t at TDC when turning the cam pulleys. Do the crank last.

Edit: even with the plugs out, as you rotate the cam pulleys, you get tension from the valve springs because you are pushing down valves along the way as you turn it. You just want the pistons down a little in the cylinder so you don’t hit them so that is why you do not want the crank at TDC or BDC for that matter

So how much should the crank be turned off TDC to make sure it’s clear of pistons(or valves?). ?

If it is the typical 2 plane crankshaft as opposed to the very rare flat plane cranks, then 90 degrees either side of TDC should put all the pistons at mid stroke. With the plugs out, you can stick something into each cylinder to confirm that no pistons are near the top of their stroke.

Draw a circle on a piece of paper. Now use a protractor or something to find 30 degrees down from the top of the circle on both sides. Connect the dots with a line. Now measure the distance from the top of the circle to the line. You will see that they are not very far apart. A few degrees is not enough for the valves to clear the pistons. It has to be pretty far. The Haynes manual suggests 50 degrees one side or the other to insure clearance. If you go 90 degrees, then a pencil or stick inserted into each cylinder should go approx the same distance to the piston on all 8 cylinders.

The only thing in worried about now it’s that the cams already being in a position to where I can’t turn the crank bolt 90degrees. I felt pressure when doing so earlier but like we already said that could be there compression because the plugs are in.

I know it’s pressure when I try to turn cams because it springing me back but the crank doesn’t spring as much as it just gets difficult to turn. Although I don’t hear any metal in mental contact or clunks

Is the crank at TDC now? The cam gear should rest on the mark. It may be springy when moving in spots but the mark should be a rest spot. You should then be able to turn the crank away from TDC. That may mean turning the crank backwards which is OK as long as the belt is off. You are not supposed to turn it backwards with the belt on or it could do damage. If the cam gears are on their marks, you can move the crank in any position you want even though some of the valves are open, they are not fully open. Not open enough for the valve to interfere with the pistons. Just do not go toward TDC or BDC if the cam gears are not on their marks.

Yeah the crank is at TDC now

I know this might be a lot of questions but you said with the plugs it I can stick something in to see if the Pistons aren’t at the top off their stroke. How deep would I need to stick something in there?

I’m going to try to find a 3d video to get a picture of it

A brand new, unsharpened #2 pencil would be about right, or anything about that size or longer. I would not go shorter as you don’t want to drop something in there you can’t get out.

If the piston is at BDC, figure 3.3" for the stroke, 0.1" for the deck above the piston, 0.15" for the head gasket, 1.5" from the top of the combustion chamber to the top of the block, 1" for the spark plug thread depth and at least two inches to hold onto. So that adds up to 8.05" min length and the width (diameter) limited to the diameter of the spark plug hole. I’d want to go a little longer just in case.

But you are already at TDC. If you only have to move the cam sprocket one or two teeth, it should not be a problem. If you have to turn it significantly, I’d suggest that you turn the crank either forward or back 90 degrees. Make sure the cam sprocket is at a resting place and not holding a valve all the way down. You should have the valve covers off so you can see if any springs are fully compressed.

If you don’t have the valve covers off, that stick you need to check piston depth better be another three inches longer for the spark plug hole.

Well the belt is on and I did two resolutions and he stayed aligned all three marks just got to put it back together and drive it

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Good for you for sticking with it and producing a runner w/new timing belt. Suggest next time you want to extend your diy’er abilities by taking on a big new job like this, ask for tips here before beginning. Enjoy your ride, best of luck.

Jinx! (it’s not running yet)

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I screwed up. I made a dumb mistake because of anxiety. I looked at a YouTube video to put the car back together so I can remember what went where. The guy gave a warning about leaving off the tensioner pulley spacer. I couldn’t see so I took it back apart to make sure I didn’t forget it.

When I opened it up I realized I never took off the tensioner pulley. I took off a different pulley.

I put it back together in a rush and forgot to remove an Allen wrench from the tensioner slot. I rotated the engine twice and it looked fine everything lined up.

When I figured it out shortly after I already t turned the engine. I removed it.

Now the belt skips. I stretched out the belt I suppose