I have a 2001 tracker 2.0 it’s my mud/hunting ride I was mudding in it a few weeks ago and headed home I made it 10 min up the road and it started so slow down on flat ground so I downshift and try to speed up to 55 and it just missed and sputtered till I came to a complete stop I’ve put new plugs and new crank sensor on it Please any help is greatly appreciated
Have you checked for a jumped timing chain?
How is timing marks supposed to lineup I looked for Digram but never could find one
That’s pretty basic info and should be available somewhere on line. I always buy a Haynes Manual for my cars. Some prefer Chilton’s. Your local library may have or be able to get a book for you.
Generally there’s a notch or mark on the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley) that lines up with a pointer or mark on the engine itself. That’s TDC for the crankshaft. There may also be smaller marks, but the big one is the one you want for TDC. Under the valve cover is a pulley, driven by the timing belt or chain, that turns the camshaft. That pulley also has TDC marks: on my Honda, an Up arrow and two marks 180 degrees apart that line up at the edge of the cylinder. The crankshaft and the camshaft pulleys’ TDCs should line up perfectly.
To check for a jumped timing chain, remove the valve cover.
Take socket/breaker bar and turn the crankshaft in the normal direction.
Now turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction and observe the camshaft/valve movement.
If the crankshaft can be rotated in the opposite direction 5 degrees or more before any camshaft/ valve movement, the timing chain is loose and may have jumped time.
Yea I’m pretty sure timing is good and I’m so sorry for such a long reply I’ve took it to a shop and they installed a new crank sensor and they figured out the injectors and the wire in the starter is not getting any fire running to them any thing to check for?
No power to the ignition system or the starter solenoid? The electrical connections in the ignition switch could be bad.
With electrical issues the first thing I do is check all of the fuses; both the dash fuses and the underhood fuse/relay box.
Some cars will use half a dozen different fuses to allow the engine to run. One out of six gives up and you have a no-start.
The injectors won’t get pulsed unless the computer has determined the crankshaft is rotating. And it uses the crank sensor to make that decision. Make sure the crank sensor & circuit is working correctly before debugging the injector circuitry.
The ‘start’ signal to the starter comes from the battery, through the ignition switch, often through an under-dash relay, then through a transmission safety switch, to the starter. So anything in that path could be the cause. A faulty crank sensor wouldn’t normally prevent the starter from cranking. I expect those are different problems.
You have plenty of gas in the tank and the battery is fully charged, right?
Yes it has a half tank of gas and battery is on charger at all time while I work on it and on the clutch the safety switch I bypassed it under the dash
Does it turn over, but not start and run? If “the wire in the starter is not getting any fire” (electricity) then the starter motor will not run. Please update us on the symptoms and what has been done so far. Good luck.
Thank you all for the help I had a guy with a 18,000$ scan tool to hook it up and it ended up being a bad crank sensor and the cam sensor both were bad