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Slipping Clutch Part 2

After establishing that my clutch is indeed slipping on my '03 Eclipse RS, and is getting worse day by day, how long should I go before replacing it? Also, is there damage being done to parts within the transmission or anything else because of the slipping?

Manual or automatic? They are different.

Since your choice of works makes me think you are talking about a manual transmission, I can suggest that once they start slipping, they just slip more and more until you can no longer move the car. Then it must be towed in to be repaired. Once it starts, it does not last long and the death comes fast.

It is a Manual. Would love advice on the repair as in where to get the clutch kit, whether or not to get a heavier duty one for the extra 50 or 60 buck, and any additional tips for once i get started.

if it is hydroclic you will want to fix it before you mess up the slave cyl

I would be more concerned about damage to the flywheel,hope this is not a “dual mass” unit?

Have you ever changed a clutch on a FWD car?? This is usually beyond the abilities of amateur mechanics…This is the type of job that can get sideways VERY quickly…

normally i would say i agree, but or the sake o saving 1000 dollars, I’d be willing to take the risk. the car has 150,000 miles on it, so I’d be putting nearly 1/5 the total value in it for a repair. I recently replaced the clutch on a friends 10 year old BMW 3 series. could it possibly be any more ridiculous than that? Also, I’m not sure if Eclipses use duel mass flywheels or not, and i recently replaced the slave cyl, just to answer dodge and oldschool

Dual mass was initally used for high end cars but their use is spreading. What did you find hard about on the BMW?traditional layout,those torx bolt heads can be tight and you can really mess things up if you select the wrong size socket initally and round things off

I would think having a plan to just have it turned would be most likely,just wanted to let you know they do exist and are expensive. The bushing?bearing in the end of the crank can be hard to deal with,I have left them in many times,check and see if it is rough and check the end of the trans mainshaft to see if it is rough,remember to lube the mainshaft splines and find someway to center the clutch disc,remove any clips keeping the pressure plate compressed after installation (before putting the trans back in) FWD is more difficult.

thank you for the advice. i’ll be doing this over the course of my spring break, so i may check in with some questions for ya.

Your clutch is probably ready for a replacement, But make sure the slave cylinder is not adjusted to far and won’t let the clutch totally engage.


On a lot of Japanese models, it is no more difficult to do a clutch replacement on FWD as RWD. Both drive axles need to be pulled, but they typically have a center support bracket that holds the forward and rear motor mounts. Drop it, and the transmission mount, and the engine/transaxle swings down on the remaining engine mount. The tranny will slide right out, once unbolted.