New clutch kit, new slave cylinder but clutch still slipping

So I’ve got a Mitsubishi Galant 2.5 V6 from 2000. I’ve got a new clutch kit and new slave cylinder but it’s still slipping at higher loads. It’s very noticeable in 5th gear when putting a little bit more load.
Any ideas why? Could it be the clutch master cylinder or something else?

Was it slipping with old clutch?

Not that I’m aware. It started slipping when I realised that the slave cylinder was leaking. But like I said, I changed it but with no result. I bought the car after the clutch kit was changed but previous owner had no problem with the clutch before.

To be clear, Kevin, does the car have a new clutch disk, or just new hydraulics?

Both, I bought it very recently. Previous owner changed the disc but I changed the hydraulics.

So you can’t rule out a poor clutch replacement from the previous owner.

Usually a bad clutch will slip in 1st rather than 5th.

I would suggest the clutch flex hose is bad. Holding pressure after 5 strokes to get to 5th gear.

Was it only the disc?
Does that mean the pressure plate was not changed? If that’s the case, I would recommend your next step be to replace that.

Pump the clutch pedal several times and then open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder.

If fluid squirts out of the bleeder, the hydraulic system is still under pressure when the clutch pedal is released.

If not, then the previous owner messed up the clutch installation.



No they replaced the whole clutch kit, I got the receipt from the previous owner. I’m gonna take a look at the clutch master cylinder first of all, if nothing improves, I’m gonna call the workshop that replaced the clutch kit because they must’ve messed something up.

Alright will do, thanks.

Presuming the slave is inside the bell-housing, part of the throw-out ass’y. My guess, the new clutch parts are ok, but the leaking slave contaminated the new disc/flywheel surfaces. Slipping may go away by itself as the contamination wears away w/use. Ask whoever installed the new slave if they noticed any fluid on those surfaces or not.

It’s outside the bell-housing.


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Scratch the leaking slave contaminates the clutch surfaces then. So what’s next? hmmm … besides the good ideas to try above, maybe the clutch pedal just needs to be adjusted to have a little more free-play.

Huh? All my clutch slipping experience has been the opposite.
How could it not be, if you think about it?

I really doesn’t matter what gear you test… the torque from the engine is exactly the same. If the engine has enough power to spin the wheels in 1st, then you likely won’t notice any slip. In 5th gear, the engine is likely too far below the max torque RPM to slip unless you are driving well in excess of the speed limit. You’d have to keep dropping gears until the engine is at max torque at a speed you could comfortably pay attention.

I replied as I did because if you didn’t notice slip in the lower gears…only in 5th… it is likely not the clutch itself.

I’ve never had a slipping clutch problem to diagnose myself, but Ray used to say (on the radio show) the way they’d test a clutch is place the front bumper against a tree, then put it in a high gear (4th or 5th), & slowly let the clutch out. If engine stalled, clutch ok.

A tree? You are listening to advice from 40 years ago.
Be careful with your customer’s bumper.

I was taught and have always done the turn up a steep (hill) road and go straight to the highest gear, if it bogs down the motor it is not slipping…

Is that with or without the tree hugger still hugging the tree??.. asking for a friend… :grin:

In other words somebody putting:in a aplication for a DARWIN award :grinning:

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I always thought the so called tree test was dumb and destructive. I would get the car or motorcycle up to speed in high gear and throttle up, preferably uphill.