Rear window defroster tab comes unglued

I’ve a got a 2006 sebring convertible. I replaced the rear window defrost tab 2 years ago & it has come un-stuck again. The dealership has tried adhering it 3X and after the 24 hourcure time, as soon as I turn on the defroster, the tab comes off the window. Dealership is telling me to replace the ENTIRE rear window!

You could try the adhesive for the rear view mirror, but if that does not work, you will need a new window.

This must be a common problem…On my daughters Corolla, the rear window defroster stopped working under warranty and they replaced the window…A year later, now out of warranty, it failed again. There is power being applied to the connection points and the window traces are all intact. But no currant flow across the glass…The connector tabs are still visibly connected to the glass but there is no circuit continuity… I suspect whatever type of “glue” they use has become non-conductive… I fear that if I even TOUCH it, I will be blamed for breaking it…

Anyone have any ideas about restoring continuity at the wire to glass connection points??

I broke the defroster tab off the hatch in my 2000 Blazer. Permatex sells a defroster repair kit, so I tried that.

To reconnect the tab, the kit has a conductive glue that works the same way as rearview mirror adhesive. The kit only has enough glue for one attempt. The first time I tried it the tab stayed attached but there was no continuity. The second time the tab fell off the first time the defroster was turned on. It sounds like the dealer has had as much luck as I had with the kit.

I’m going to try and solder it with silver solder when the temps warm up. Somewhere I had a GM TSB with the procedure. If that doesn’t work, I look for a replacement hatch window in a junk yard.

Ed B.

I am wondering if this connection needs a primer once the old glue has set. The old glue is probably becoming an insulator and preventing the voltage from reaching the tab. Maybe acetone will remove the old adhesive. I use it on rearview mirrors and it never fails.

There was a pad with primer to use on the metal grid. I used a multimeter to verify continuity before I prepared the surface with the primer. The Blazer tab was originally soldered to the grid. The first attempt had continuity, but the resistance was high enough (1 or 2 ohms) that most of the voltage drop was between the tab and the attachment point. I could try again, but I don’t feel like spending another $15 on the kit.

Ed B.