No crank start in a 2005 Honda accord

I’m having a frustrating start-up issue with my 2005 Honda Accord LX (2.4 L, automatic). Here’s what’s happening:
• No Crank / No Noise
– Turning the key does absolutely nothing—no click, no cranking, just silence.
• Key Gets Stuck
– The ignition key often won’t release; I have to jiggle it or disconnect the battery to pull it out.
• Green “Security” Key Light Flashing
– The dash security/immobilizer icon blinks continuously instead of going out.
• Green “D” Gear Indicator Flashing
– The “D” on the instrument cluster flashes green, even when parked.
• Shift-Lock Bypass
– I can move the shifter out of Park without pressing the brake pedal.
• What I’ve Tried
1. Key Reprogramming: Had all keys re-programmed—no change.
2. Battery & Connections: Battery reads ~12.6 V at rest; terminals are clean and tight.
3. Brake Lights: Function normally when pedal is pressed.
4. OBD2 Scan: No stored fault codes.

I suspect the STOP-lamp fuse, brake-light switch, shift-lock solenoid, neutral‐safety (range) switch or immobilizer loop might be at fault—but I’m not sure where to begin.

Remember that battery voltage could be a mere “surface charge”, and there might not actually be current available to start the car. Without trying a different (known good) battery, you cannot rule out the most simple cause: a dead battery.

Has this car given problems before, which would suggest that something more complicated than a new battery is needed?

Well, I went through something similar with my 2002 Daewoo Lanos. The problem was intermittent at first, and related to the weather. At first, I thought it was the transmission range sensor (basically like a neutral safety switch, though it also tells the PCM which gear you’re in). I replaced that, and the problem continued. Then I got out the factory service manual, traced the starter signal wire back to the PCM, and assumed it was a bad PCM. So I replaced that, and the problem continued. Then I replaced the ignition switch, problem continued. This car doesn’t have an immobilizer, so I didn’t have to worry about that. What ultimately solved the problem was a new starter, which required pulling the brake master cylinder, pulling the coolant expansion tank, pulling the intake manifold, pulling the fuel rail out of the engine, etc. Probably the hardest-to-replace starter I have ever seen, though I heard replacing the starter on a Chevette is even more difficult.

Yes the battery is new and shows good voltage when the ignition is on

Can you put the transmission in neutral? If so, try starting in neutral. If it works, then you need a new neutral safety switch.

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I replaced it already didn’t fix it

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