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Intermittent start conundrum on 07 honda accord

My honda has been having starting issues. At first, when rocked (literally) or when the hood would be popped open, i could get it to start. Other times, i would need a jump. All times i have full power otherwise and up until yesterday, it would make a single “click” when trying to turn over. I checked connections, battery wires were corroded so replaced those. Then yesterday, rocking and jumping wouldn’t work so i would quickly turn the key over a bunch and it would start. Now that’s not working.
I just tapped the starter and it worked (car started) but i just had it tested and it said it was fine.
I was sure it was the ignition switch but now I’m not so sure.
Looking for second opinions. I’m a girl working on this solo and can’t afford to replace everything… Hoping its one or the other and i replace the right one. Not much for help on this around this area either… Help please!!!

Battery connections are the first place to begin when you have a “No Crank” situation. Even
if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be
allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. The connection may be
enough to turn on the lights, but not enough for the huge flow that is needed to operate the
starter. This is where many people say that they know the battery is good….”because the
lights come on”. This is no more a battery test than licking a 9volt battery. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.
Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem.

First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. There is a tool with a round wire brush for this purpose, found at any auto parts store for less than $10
Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast.

It is just as important that the other end of the cables also have a clean connection. Remove the positive cable from the battery again so that you do not short anything out. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and retighten these connections.

If there was work done recently, there may have been an “engine to body” ground that was not installed following the work. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them.
Remember….this is not a “Sherman Tank” don’t over tighten the connections.
Tight…tight………………too tight…broke!!!


I’ve already done that… I’ve got it narrowed down to the neutral safety switch, ignition switch and starter… Had starter tested already and it passed. Would this all apply to ignition switch you think?
Tapping starter makes me think it could be that but then the rest makes zero sense.
Thanks for replying BTW!

If tapping the starter consistently gets it to crank robustly, I think replacing the starter would be a good bet. The best way to resolve this quickly however is to make a couple of voltage measurements at the starter motor during attempted cranking. Are you set up to do something like that? If not ask your shop to make these voltage measurements during attempted cranking

  • starter B+ post to starter case
  • starter “start” post to starter case

If both measure 10.5 volts or above during attempted cranking, and the starter doesn’t crank, that would confirm a replacement starter is needed.