I have a 2000 Honda Accord that has no power won’t start . Just replaced a fuel pump spark plugs battery … HELP !!! Wondering if it could be a short some where . It did start today then I shut it off and try to start again and had no power . Any advice ??
Please give us some more information to help us help you. When you say no power do you mean you turn the key and the starter does not turn the engine? No clicking, no other sounds? Do your lights come on? Radio etc work? If the lights come on and you have a known good battery your starter is probably bad and needs replaced. If you have access to the starter you can try to hit it with a broom handle once or twice to loosen it up and then see if it will start. Why did you replace the fuel pump, plugs and battery? Any other problems with the car?
you did the work or paid a shop to do it?
Check fuse 41, 100 amp, and fuse 42, 50 amp, in the under hood fuse box.
If either of these fuses have blown, the vehicle won’t have any electrical power.
In addition to giving us a whole lot more to go on (tell us the story, don’t just give us the headlines), check to be sure that your battery cables are securely fastened to the battery posts.
My son’s 99 Accord died, wouldn’t start and had no power. It was the ground wire from the battery that had corroded. One new wire and it was as good as new. This is one of many possibilities.
When you say it won’t start, do you mean it won’t crank? Or it cranks ok, but won’t catch and run? If it won’t crank, start by measuring the battery voltage.
Battery cable connections.
Battery connections are the first place to begin when you have a “No Crank” situation. Even
if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be
allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. The connection may be
enough to turn on the lights, but not enough for the huge flow that is needed to operate the
starter. This is where many people say that they know the battery is good….”because the
lights come on”. This is no more a battery test than licking a 9volt battery. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.
Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem.
First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. There is a tool with a round wire brush for this purpose, found at any auto parts store for less than $10 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kd-tools-terminal-battery-brush-kdt201/25980576-P?searchTerm=terminal+brush.
Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast.
It is just as important that the other end of the cables also have a clean connection. Remove the positive cable from the battery again so that you do not short anything out. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and retighten these connections.
If there was work done recently, there may have been an “engine to body” ground that was not installed following the work. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them.
Remember….this is not a “Sherman Tank” don’t over tighten the connections.
Hondas are prone to ignition switch failures with symptoms that vary including no-starts or randomly dying.
Some are under a Recall for this but I do not think your car is. However, even cars not covered by Recalls often suffer the same problems.
If you have a test light this would be easy to check.