The passenger side window in my 2001 Chevy Venture can be rolled down but not up with the driver side switch. The passenger side switch works fine. Any ideas as to what might be causing this problem?
I think you got the right answer yourself – bad switch. Have the switch replaced. If you are adventurous you might be able to do it yourself. It involves removing the inner door panel.
Your door armrest switch console can be pried out with a small screwdriver.
I had a proper post typed up and got trigger happy and it disappeared so this will be short.
The Haynes repair manual (for your van) #38036 covers this in detail (page 12-17). It covers my Silhouette too.
Do a complete continuity test from the drivers door mounted (passengers window) switch to the passenger door power window motor.
Remove the door panel to test the motor. (The manual describes and illustrates how to as well)
Test all connections while activating the window switch.
If no power at the motor, back probe the brown wire to the break. There are two brown wires. One for window UP and one for window DOWN.
If no break, replace the motor AFTER first checking for window regulator operation and window binding.
Thanks for the reply. I already checked the switch with and ohmmeter and it appears to be fine. Any other suggestions?
If you don’t have a VOM, you might just clean the contacts on the switches and the connector. It will probably cost about $70 to buy a new driver’s side switch set. They may be available on line, but the price should be the same. At least that was the case with my Buick.
without spending too much $$ do you have a decent JunkYard near you? for short $$ you can buy a take out switch?
the problem is they usually want to sell the whole door with the inside panel.
agree to the price beforehand, if you can find one in the yard and remove it yourself, make sure the door was shut, and not with a broken open window (then it will have been out in the rain alot)
the only problem, like roadrunner says, it most likely may be an electrical wiring/contact problem, which would make the switch a non issue.
Looks like I over-analyzed this one. After getting a wiring diagram for the both switches, I realized that my initial test of the switch was flawed. I checked around for a new master switch, and believe it or not the dealer had the best price. I did the work myself - incredibly simple - the panel the switch fits in and the switch both unclip easily. I snapped in the new switch and everything worked fine. Got by for less than $65 plus some of mine time this past weekend.
Thanks to all who submitted a response.