I have a 2000 Chrysler Voyeger thats been having problems with the power windows. At first the problem started with the drivers side window. Because the window switch was making a buzzing sound when the activated I assumed it was the switch. However the problem persisted. Then recently the passenger side window has been showing signs of a problem. It runs very slowly when closing and has even stopped. I have been able “force” the windows to go back up but I sure there is a problem with both of them now. Does this sound like a window motor problem and if so, how do I get the interior of the door off to replace it?
Thanks,
My bet is a faulty switch. If the drivers door console window switch doesn’t work properly for the drivers door window, the passenger door window won’t either.
It’s a double switch right?
Pry the old switch out gently with a small screwdriver and change it for one you KNOW is good.
If you want to check for window channel binding you will need to remove the inner door panel.
This requires a slim forked tool (not expensive) to pull the panel clips loose from the door. Be aware you will likely break some (they’re plastic).
Before you pry the panel off, remove the visible screws by the door handle. (probably two of them)
Pry out the arm rest window and door switches (also the remote mirror switch, (if so equipped) and disconnect the electrical connectors.
If the stereo speakers are mounted to the panel instead of the door you will have to disconnect that wire too.
Once you have the panel off, Carefully peel back the plastic moisture barrier to access the window/guides/motor/etc.
I went through this about a month ago with my '00 Silhouette’s drivers door window and the fault turned out to be the switch.
Reattach the window switch to the wiring and test the window slides (guides) for bonding and also to check the window motor.
When you activate (ignition key ON) the power window switch, watch the window motor. Does it wind the window down but not up? Try a different switch.
Dealers charge two arms and a leg for this switch so check around your local scrapyards or perhaps find an aftermarket outlet somewhere.
The main problem with corrosion in these door mounted switches is from the rain that pours in when the window is down. As a result, you may find it hard to locate a switch that will actually work as the scrapped vehicles usually have no drivers door window in them.
Known problem with these vans. The combination of a large heavy window and a small motor is not a good one.
Try lubing the window channels with dry silicone spray.
I think I need to clarify something. I actually installed a new drivers side window switch. It operates
the drivers and front passenger windows as well as the two rear vent windows. Consistantly for the last 6 months the drivers window has had the following problem. It will frequently go down and then may not go back up. When this has happened I have had to lift the window up and down while pushing the window switch.
In doing this I get it to operate and am able to close the window. Right after I changed the window switch the operation was still the same (no change). I don’t know what the problem is. All of the other windows have operated fine with either the old or new switch. Recently, the problem with the passenger window has cropped up. It operates but has seamed like it was “running out of gas” sometimes when closing it. This seams like a completely different problem than the drivers window.
Thanks again for the advice.
This will have to be trouble shot starting at the fuse panel.
You mention the passenger window “running of gas”. I think you’ll need to use a multi-meter when checking the flow of power to the switches and window motor.
There are several things that prevent a power window from operating: A blown fuse (why?) a lack of 12V from the fuse to the window switch, a bad switch, track binding, a worn window motor, damaged wiring or a poor ground. One other thing…a dead battery.