On one side of the rear window defroster the wire broke off at its contact with the metal connector on the window grid. It’s a 2001 TT Roadster. I suspect years of moving the top up and down led to the break. There is no wire left on the connector end. The dealer and other places I have taken it to have not wanted to solder it together due to concerns about the heat breaking the glass. I really don’t want to replace the entire window - or top. I welcome any suggestions for solutions. Many thanks.
I would say to go ahead and solder it. It’s tempered glass and should hold up well. Soldering is pretty low heat and, with the small metal elements, the contact time will probably only be a second or two at most. Just solder a small wire to the grid, be sure to use low temp solder for electronic components and it should come out pretty nicely. Otherwise, just live with it as is and wipe down as needed.
If I understand correctly, there is no wire stub sticking out beyond the window. If that is the case, the soldering won’t fix the problem. Solder is weak and won’t last long as a butt joint. It would work better if there is a small bit of wire that you could twist together with the free end of the connection. If the metal connector on the window is exposed, soldering to it might work.
I remember when I was younger, you could buy a complete “film” that was a rear defroster. It may be simpler in the long run to razor blade off the factory defroster, and replace it entirely with one of those. If I remember correctly, you treated the window, stuck it on, and removed the film, leaving new wire strips on the glass, complete with new attachment points.
Forget that, chaissos. I had a car that had no rear defroster and tried that kit. It was ugly, didn’t extend all the way across the window, and the heat melted the adhesive, dropping the grid after working a couple of times.
I also vote to solder the connector back on. The trick is to be sure to polish the contact points super clean, even hit it with a 2000 grid sandpaper to make sure it is clean. And use rosin. Rosin-core solder is not enough. Get some soldering rosin in a tin and use a disposable brush to brush it on the clip and the windshield contact point. Heat it until the rosin sizzles, and it will dramatically help pull the solder into the joint.
lol…OK…sorry. Just a thought. We had one that worked for several years before we sold the car (in Europe, in the early 80’s).