I have a 2011 Camry LE and recently both rear door locks stopped responding to any form whether using the key fob or driver door controls(I have to manual lock and unlock the rear doors)However the rear windows work fine, which indicates the rear doors receiving power. This is really inconvenient. Has anyone else had this problem and or have a clue to what’s going on? Only the front doors (driver and front passenger) are operating properly.
Do either of the rear door locks work when the switch on THAT door is pushed ?
Is there a child lockout for that function ? ( as there is for the rear windows )
Are you refering to the Driver door master switch? if so the answer is no. Also the child safety is not engaged on either door.
the windows are probably on a separate circuit. Did you check the fuses, located under and to the left of the steering wheel?
I think you have failing door lock actuators.
Normally all four door lock actuators are on the same fuse so a short circuit/blown fuse is very unlikely.
Also I have never seen a car with door lock switches on the rear doors, what car do you own Ken?
I checked the fuses under the dashboard, non of them seem blown. also I didn’t see any fuses that corresponded to the rear door power
That thought did cross my mind, but what are the chances that both actuators would fail at the exact same time. After doing some research I did find the possible fuse to look at online, Genuine Toyota 82620-33030 Fusible Link Assembly 120amp. (RR FOG, FR DEF, HTR, ABS
NO.1, ABS NO.2, RR DEF, RR
PWR SEAT, H-LP CLN, CDS FAN,
RDI FAN, MSB, TAIL, PANEL, FR
FOG, CIG, RADIO No.2, ECUACC,
PWR OUTLET, GAUGE
No.1, ECU IG No.1, ECU IG No.2,
H-LP LVL, WASH, A/C No.2, SHTR,
WIP, P/SEAT, DOOR No.2,
POWER, RR DOOR LH, RR
DOOR RH, ECU-B No.2, OBD,
FUEL OPN, PWR, STOP, S/ROOF,
TI&TE, A/C, AM1)
this multi link fuse is bolted on to the main fuse box under the hood. This fuse will be a pain to access, I have to remove the air box assembly and take apart the fuse box. just to check the fuse. hopefully I can check it out as a last resort before I buy 2 new actuators, those things aren’t cheap.
yes, you can check the fuse assembly with a multimeter. Test each connector for continuity, very easy to do.
That main power fuse powers just about everything. When someone connects the battery backwards it blows that fuse and the car is dead, must be towed. You would notice if all of those things on the list were inoperative.
Remove the door panel and test for power to the door lock actuator while operating the door lock switch. I rarely need to test for power however, most of these Toyota/Lexus lock actuator become very weak when they are failing. The lock will nudge a bit when using the switch but not have enough strength to fully lock or unlock the door.
I believe the fuse he is talking about is a multi-function fuse, like the one in this picture. Some Toyota have this fuse under the hood and others below the steering column. Once pulled it’s easy to see if any of the functions are blown. I just don’t have the foggiest idea which pole on the fuse has what function.
This is from a post on a 07 Camry with power door lock problem a couple of weeks ago. Front hood, opened the Fuse box, removed the Relays, cleaned the holders and inserted the Relays back. I also gave a firm press to all the relays.