2010 accord lost power then shut off cranks no start what should I check

Maintenance/Repairs
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My 2010 accord 2.4 started to lose power when accelerating a couple weeks ago and a week ago it shut off when in park idling and won’t start it has a strong crank no start
I’ve replaced fuel relay
Replaced fuel rail
Clean spark plugs
New fuel pump

Vvt valve
Cam shaft crank sensor
Battery
Fuses
Please can anyone tell me what I am missing

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you are missing whatever the actual problem is.

Is your check engine light on? Have you pulled Diagnostic Trouble Codes?
What is “Cleaning spark plugs”? were they dirty? were they wet?

what led you to replace all the parts you have replaced? Did you do any tests? What is your fuel pressure? What is battery cranking voltage?

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Does this engine have a timing belt or timing chain?

If belt, has the belt ever been changed/replaced? If chain, have you changed the oil regularly?

Just wondering if there might be a broken timing belt at work here.

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9-0711SAX
9-0711SAX1500×1076 131 KB

Tester

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I’m beginning to wonder if a defective new crank sensor was installed.

Tester

6

For cranks robustly, but won’t catch and run, usually the problem is either spark or fuel. Spark is the easier of the two to test. Fuel testing usually means a fuel rail pressure test/noid light test to verify injectors are being pulsed. If spark and fuel both test good, next up

  • Clogged exhaust system, most likely is the catalytic converter
  • EGR valve is stuck in the full-on position.

Experienced shops know how to test for each of those possibilities.

My crystal ball is saying this is an EGR system problem.

Unlikely to be the cause, but it’s a good idea to start by making sure the camshaft is rotating . Usually this is easy to do just by looking into the hole in the valve cover area, where the engine oil is poured. (Safest to do this w/ engine off, hand-rotating the engine wrenching the crank-pulley bolt.)

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Wow, that’s a lot of parts. As other have mentioned, you need to diagnose the cause. Do you have fuel pressure? How about spark? If yes to both, do you have the ability to check compression? You mentioned it has a “strong crank”, which is a symptom of a broken/jumped timing chain. You can pull the timing cover and confirm the chain is still connected and that the timing marks are still lined up.

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