And I’m seeing now that Bing had it right before him. It took me a little while to wrap my head around this one but I finally got there. Had been stuck thinking it was an aftermarket lift.
In my defense my only previous work with a leaf spring was to use part of one to scrape paint off a boat.
Now that I’m on the right track I’m searching for the right information.
Wondering if just moving the attachment point, axle to the leaf spring, to the right (to rear) a little would help? The spindle ass’y currently looks a tad askew, tilted w/respect to body. Or maybe under load the entire leaf spring moves toward the rear, accomplishing the same thing?
I presume you mean it is a boat-trailer axle. The bearing probably got water-logged when loading/unloading the boat, rusted, and that’s what damaged the spindle. Once you get the new axle installed, suggest to ask fellow boat trailer owners what their axle bearing preservation methods are. Whenever I’d drive my 4WD truck through a stream on camping trips years ago I’d change-out the differential oil within a day or two, usually the same day.
No. The spring has a pin to positively locate the axle. The axle will travel backwards as it compresses when loaded and more when it hits a bump.
And it doesn’t matter if the spindle is a little askew. It will rock forward when the brakes apply.
Ok, once more, let’s not over-think this. It make no difference if the spring shackle is exactly vertical with all the weight off. I would not mess with changing the shackle locations. That can change the balance of the trailer when loaded. You want more weight on the front of the trailer to avoid fish tailing that can be very dangerous. The manufacturer should/would have taken this into account when they built the trailer. It’s not like a utility trailer or camper where you can load heavier items to the front to compensate. Just leave the design alone and change the parts.
On our first camping trip years ago we borrowed a camper. The math teacher owner bragged how it was perfectly balanced front and back. I loaded more weight in the front otherwise it would have been flying all over the road. You cannot easily change the physics of a boat so don’t mess with it.
I’ve seen professional mechanics who haven’t a clue on how to properly pack a wheel bearing. If done properly every few years or so, this type of axle should last FOREVER.
This is a camping travel trailer. Thanks for all the wisdom. I’m currently shopping for a straight axle for more clearance but plan to leave everything else the same.
My best option (at the moment, subject to change) looks like online companies like OEMpartsstore that would order the axle custom from Dexter.
I’m not 100% sure that this is a brake axle and not an idler axle. Not sure I know all the differences. But it has brake flanges so I’m assuming it can accept brakes.
What do you think those wires are for? Electric brakes.
If this is a single axle trailer with an empty weight of over 1900 lbs, you must have brakes by most state laws and common sense. Just buy the axle complete with brakes.
Consider that you may need to rewire the trailer, add a safety brake system including a battery and add a brake controller to the tow vehicle.
Whattt??? You mean OP needs brakes and to be safe??? 
Mustangman is correct, it would probably be cheaper to just buy a complete axle w/brakes then to kit it together… Plus you know it all fits and is a matched set so to speak…
Don’t know if they offer a wiring kit and everything else needed… But you could call them or whoever and tell them you are building a trailer from scratch and see if they can put everything together for you…
I meant the axle that I linked to.
I’m little disturbed that you assumed I disassembled the brakes without realizing they were brakes. And I already installed the trailer wiring and brake controller in my vehicle which came in useful for towing it home after I bought it.
Maybe a good idea to buy an axle complete with brakes. I’m a penny pincher and it seemed like buying components separately was cheaper.
From the first post in this thread.
Just remember that in any picture we never saw brakes, so the previous owner could have removed the brakes for whatever reason before you bought it and pulled it home,…
As well as we see and reply to a crap load of post and don’t always remember ever tidbit of every thread…
Forgive me for not remembering you mentioned brakes 3 days and many replies ago.
That setup is $539 when you allow that my measurements are a custom order. The axle at OEM I linked to above is about $200.
You guys crack me up. And I remain grateful for you sharing your wisdom.
All I did was a 10 second Google to find that link, you can look longer for a better deal, but your axle seems to be only the bare axle IF I am not mistaken, so you still need bearings and hubs if yours are damaged or don’t fit, plus everything else, it all adds up, The 10 second look up link I found is complete from bearing dust cap to bearing dust cap, brakes bearings etc are all included…
I am going to live either way you go with this, I am only providing options, it is up to you what you do with them… lol
And I look a little like the guy on the right but a little younger and hopefully better looking but probably not… 
What’s the total cost, once you figure in bearings, brake shoes, drum resurfacing, and whatever else is needed? I assume you’re not adding cost for your time. I do, and that usually ends up with me buying the complete package.
I think you all are probably right about the package. And oempartsstore just got back to me and they don’t have an outlet near me for pickup so it would be a LOT more with shipping.
Thanks for all the help!
Edited to add: If I go with a 4" drop axle (and can mount it under the springs to get the extra clearance) then it looks like that’s standard enough to find in stock with companies that include shipping. Can also get new springs and ubolts for an extra 100. It’s just money right?
Just order the package with brakes, springs, and ubolts. Should get here end of next week. Done!
Oh no! Not this again … lol …
I think @Bing 's suggestion above is a good one to replace the axle with an identical part configured in the same way/same ride height as originally configured, helps insure trailer remains stable when being towed.
My truck’s front wheel bearing system (in 2WD mode) looks to be a similar design to this trailer. A pair of conical roller bearings, one inner, one outer, for each wheel. The spindle on the truck is a separate part, can be unbolted from the axle ass’y. I’ve never needed to replace the bearings, the races, or the spindle in 50 years of use.
I got the impression it was a boat trailer. Guess not. At any rate, ya want the thing tracking straight so I’d leave the shackles alone. If the axle is a little kitty wampus, a tire can get scuffed up in no time. A guy I know wrecked two ties on his boat trailer on a 100 mile trip until he discover the axle was not straight. A lot easier to measure with it upside down plus overhead welding is not the easiest. But I think I’m done here.
The spring mounts come loose so I figure I can mount it overslung (springs on top) and see how it looks before welding. Maybe I worry too much [ed: he definitely worries too much] but the drain pipe for the waste tanks looked low to me and the frame prevents it from being raised. One of the places I’m looking forward to camping has a fairly bumpy dirt road to get to. It would be cool if the suspension height was adjustable.
Excellent advice about getting the alignment right. I assume there are a lot of youtube videos out there on that topic.
Ohhh there is, but you would not like the price… lol
Air Bags… They can be used to lower or raise a vehicles ride height… You could have it reg height while on paved roads and raise it for the bumps in the road…
