Sorry, can I ask a trailer question in CarTalk? Please delete if not.
I just bought this trailer (my first) and took apart the wheels to do inspection, brakes, and bearings. The bearing nuts were on way too tight and the spindles look awful.
Based on my internet searches it looks like a new axle is the way to go, but all of this is new to me. Any and all advice would be welcome.
Yup, new axles are in order. Those are well and trully roached.
There is really no reasonable way to fix that.
Recommended source for new axles?
And not to change the subject, but I was wondering if it might be possible to increase the trailer clearance an inch or two for dirt roads.
Just search the internet. There are sources. Look for an axle with less drop.
Edit… look here
It looks like someone didn’t preload the bearings properly at some point.
Tester
You can reverse the mounting by putting the axle under the springs instead of on top.
Or but a straight axle and leave the springs underslung. That will get you 4 inches lift right there. A 2 inch block between the spring and axle would reduce the lift to only 2 inches.
The way the axle is mounted, you don’t have much ride travel before the axle hits the frame so I’d use a 4 inch drop axle mounted under the springs.
I don’t know where you are but I get all my trailer parts from pioneer rim and wheel in Minneapolis. Northern automotive also has many parts. Best just deal with a local trailer shop though.
Edit: yeah etrailer is a good outfit too. I’ve used them for hitches.
The manufacturer welded the spring mounts a bit too far forward… but other than that it is OK.
If you want more ride height, put the axle under the spring (when you get a new one, of course)
And because it is a trailer, carefully check the wiring to insure there is a proper ground, all the lights and the electric brakes work… which it looks like it has (or had) because I see wires. Likely that axle is a 3500# axle considering the brakes and 5 lug wheels. 5000# axles are more likely to have 6 bolt wheels.
Correction: used to be northern hydraulics, then northern automotive, but now think it is just northern tool.
At any rate just looking at their trailer parts, they have axles, and separate spindles. I don’t know how those spindles are mounted, but it might be possible to just weld new spindles on. I have welded new spindles on my axle before, changed springs, etc. then again a complete axle and springs and spindles are only a few hundred dollars. I had a spring break loose once and ripped my tire up leaving me stranded so I like to just peplace everything at once.
I’m starting to understand how things work and what the variables are. Question: this is a boat axle, but it seems like just what I’m looking for. Bad idea?
Looks like the dry weight of your trailer from what I can find is 2465 pounds… So basically 2500 pounds dry, As long as you are not putting 1000 pounds of water, camping stuff and other odds and ends including the people that will be in it, then you should be ok… I would think anyway, but I’m not a trailer expert…
I think the boat application (galvanized) part, has more to do with the putting it in/under water while unloading/loading your boat will not hurt it…
Yes, galvanized because of water and a straight axle but is it the correct track width? The bored grease holes are great for giving the bearings a shot or 3 before you take it on a trip or on a boat after it has been dipped in the water. Trailer bearings rarely get much service. Plain or galvanized will be fine.
Keep in mind, the straight axle is going to raise your trailer a full 4 inches.
Dave is mostly right about the weight. He forgot about the tongue weight.
Since 10 to 15% of the trailer’s loaded weight is carried on your hitch, or 250 to 375 lbs, you can carry that much more in gear. Say 1250 lbs total. But leaving some margin is a good idea so 1000 lbs should be safe.
I’m also thinking that this hanger could lose a couple inches to level the springs out, so the net lift would be 2-3 inches which sounds good to me.
Or are the springs supposed to be angled that way?
You don’t need galvanized but you do probably need the bearings and hubs. You will need to know the length of the axle. Hubs are relatively cheap top. The springs will squat a little when you get weight on them. Thus the one shackle hinges to allow that. Some springs just slide to allow the flattening. Take a look at the northern tool site for the drop axle and other parts. They might have measuring instructions, I don’t know.
As the leaf spring flattens out (loading it, adding weight to the axle, going over bumps etc, right now it is hanging, unloaded) the shackle (rear spring hangers) have to move outward to compensate or the spring could bind up… Shortening the shackles might/will cause it to bind up…
Your shackles have to be long enough that when the leaf’s flatten out they are not binding, you could always use a straight axle with say 2" lowering blocks to be safe…
But yes, makes sure you have the correct measurements when ordering…
And Mustangman was correct, I was not thinking about the tongue wight… lol
lol, That 1000 pounds of extra weight over the dry (not curb) weight was a pretty good guess…
3500 lbs GAWR
It is supposed to be angled that way. It will swing as the trailer is loaded because the spring will flatten and elongate. It also steers the axle just a lttle so the trailer will follow the tow vehicle better.
Edit; Dave beat me to this answer.
I’d make sure the replacement axle had the same or better load rating than the old one.
