I think what you are thinking about are used for fish houses here. Axle connected to a winch with a cable. Lower the wheels for transport and raise them up on your fishing spot on the ice. No idea what the cost is but see a lot of them.
No I am pretty sure I meant air bags, air ride or maybe better known in the customize your vehicle world as just Bagged…
The last video show more on the how to…
Update: I ordered this 3.5k TK Trailer Axle - 3500 lb Electric Brake 5 lug - (4" Drop) | Axles | The Trailer Parts Outlet
There was a bit of miscommunication so the spring mounts came welded on in the standard underslung position (same as the old axle). They are sending me a set of spring mounts so I can mount it overslung to get the extra height if I want to.
Since I’m impatient, I went ahead and installed everything. I found that the new springs are a little longer than the old ones so the shackle plates are slanted back instead of nearly vertical as before. Also the extra spring length means that the axle is centered maybe a half inch farther back than before.
I tried putting weight on the wheel but the spring shackle went even more horizontal and the wheel made contact with the well.
What do you think I should do?
Edited to add: The title for this trailer says it is 2008. The date of manufacture on the trailer itself says 2007. The floorplan matches the 2007 floorplans which can be found online. This is single axle, but JDPower doesn’t even have a single axle 180FQ for any year. The 2008 models had double axles. I have a suspicion that the 2007 models had smaller wheels but maybe this one came out of the factory in 2008 and got the 2008 size wheels? The wheels on the trailer are ST205/75R15. The manufacture sticker on the trailer says it should have ST205/75D14C.
These pictures are looking at the left side of the trailer.
Waiting for someone else to chime in but I think you are nearing the point of just having to have ne shackles welded in a few more inches north. Yeah, unless you are buying springs separate, it’s hard to get exactly the right size. When I replaced my springs I was able to get the same length. Even still, that wheel is offset so bad, I don’t think shorter springs woul even do it. I think you have to talk to a local trailer outfit to see what they say. Shackles are cheap though and some even bolt on.
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I expect you’ve already answered your own question.
Rather, have the front mount cut off and a new mount welded a few inches forward to center the axle.
The specified 14 inch ties would provide a tad more clearance between the tire and trailer wheel well.
None of the suggestions would increase the clearance of the center section of the axle.
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Thanks for the input. I’m going to wait for the extra spring mounts to get here, then mount it overslung. That should give enough clearance so I can put weight on it and see what the springs look like. Then I can make some more permanent decisions.
Bing - “talk to people”? I don’t know if I’m ready to do anything so drastic 
Is the distance between the axle locating pin and the spring eye mount the same front/rear? I think you installed the springs backwards, the leaf clamp usually goes to the rear.
There looks to be enough space on the front spring mount to drill a new hole for the spring mount 1 1/2" forward, this will straighten out the shackles a little.
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That’s a good point if one end is shorter than the other. Both sides the same?. I can attest to the spring clamp going to the rear. Been a few years now but bouncing through Iowa on snow and ice dislodged the clamp causing the spring to rotate and blow the tire. That’s why I put new springs on.
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https://www.etrailer.com/question-245692.html
I put the leaf clamp (rebound clip) on that way just because that’s how it was with the old ones. I think the center bolt was right in the middle, but that’s a great thought and I’ll check it when I remount the axle.
When the spring is loaded, the problem will only get worse as the distance between eyes will increase as the spring flattens out. There’s a couple issues I see- the springs originally look about right in length as the rear shackle strap is hanging straight down. Assuming they are slightly worn and the arch is less than new, they would be sitting centered unloaded.
The new springs are way too long for the original set up. How did you select them?
If it were mine, I would measure eye to eye distance needed using the existing shackle positions with the rear straps slightly forward to account for being unloaded. Then look for a spring that meets the requirements or consider a custom spring set.
The wheel offset in the well is likely exacerbated by the difference in wheel diameter if the trailer had original 14" wheel. Maybe these springs have been replaced once already and originally had asymmetrical locating pin position to center the axle in the well and use a 14" wheel. Somebody replaced the parts and changed to 15" wheels and messed it all up…
Aw shoot. I couldn’t figure out why people thought I had 15" wheels but now I see that a typo slipped into my previous post, which I can’t edit. They are 14’s.
I clicked on “kit” lol. Assumed they were a standard rv length. I just talked to the seller and they are the shortest they have. Longer springs should cushion the ride better, and moving the front hanger will also center the tire in the well.
I did find this diagram on the site. My current distance between the center of the hangers is 23 1/2" which is shorter than the 24 7/8" they recommend.
The spring seats to mount overslung finally got here so I bolted it all together just to see how it would look. Except for the pic of the front hanger, all the pics are with with the springs carrying the trailer’s weight.
The first time you hit a bump the spring is going to extend a little more and push up on the rear shackle. The shackle will go past center and hit the frame, then stay there when the spring un-flattens.
That spring is too long.
Looks like the spring is about 2.5 to 3" to long…
Does the spring still have an arch to it, or has it almost flattened out???
I too think the spring is too long. Do you still have the original springs? You might try them, see if they center the axle.
I’m fortunate, have a trailer parts store near me, I could take in the old springs and they could match them.
To use the new springs you have, my opinion
The front mount needs to be relocated forward.
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Go to post 43
Yeah, long thread. I’ve got the old springs but they’re fairly rough, not sure how much life in them if any. They are 23 3/4" now (who knows how long when new). Looked for new ones in that length but didn’t find anything rated for 3,500 lbs. 25 1/4" seems to be the standard.
The new springs are not flattened out, they’re just long for the current hangers. Moving the front hanger is the logical solution. The diagram that comes with the springs says the distance from hanger centers should be 25 7/8, but is currently 23 1/2. I just wanted to see what everything looked like before doing anything permanent.
Thanks for the input.
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Just for the fun of it I thought I’d try somebody’s idea to drill a new hole in the existing hangers to get an inch (almost) forward. I’m not sure there’s enough metal around the hole for that to be safe long term, but it was a good learning experience.
It looks pretty well centered with just that inch.
What’s the trick for getting the hanger bolt all the way in? It’s got those teeth on the head end to keep it from spinning.
Others here might have better ideas but, if you do not have an air gun. Try tightening it as much as you can then hit the head with a hammer, then tighten some more. then repeat if it starts going in.
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