I don’t get a beep anymore if the headlights are left on and it seems the beep for the keys left in the ignition doesn’t work either. I’m figuring there is a fuse blown, but I cannot find one for that anywhere. Is there one?
My guess is that the switch that indicates that the driver’s door is open isn’t working. Do you have an indicator on the dashboard that shows which doors are open? If so, does it show the driver’s door as being open when it is?
Easy fix. Actually look and verify the switch is off before exiting the vehicle. A tried and proven method that has quite worked well for many years.
If PvtPublic’s idea doesn’t work… You may have an almost broken wire in the harness that feeds all the other stuff in the driver door. After 3 years of dealing with non working side mirrors, non working door lock switch and no beep when locking the car, I found a link on YouTube that explained about the broken wire. Unfortunately, I didn’t save the link.
My Corolla has both functions, beeps if key is left in ignition and door is opened, and beeps if headlights on and door is open whether or not key is in ignition. The key in ignition beep is done with the ignition switch. It has a separate switch and associated wires that operates when the key is in the lock. The headlight & door open beep uses the same switch that lights the dome light when the door is open. On my Corolla there are no wires in the door. The door switch is on the other side of the door jam, the pillar I think it is called. A part on the door hits it when the door is closed. There must be something wrong w/all that. Could be a fuse, sure. Check your owners manual for which fuses control those car parts. If not the fuses, a good auto-electric tech with the circuit schematic and common test instruments could pinpoint the cause quickly.
Thanks for all the input. I found a ton of stuff on the web about the plunger switch in the door frame causing this. However, my overhead light comes on when the door is opened and from what I read that is usually out also. I am going to start there anyway just to be sure. Oh, and yes, the door open indicator on the dashboard works.
If the indicator on the dash and the over head light work it is not the door switch. I am starting to think this may be a body control module issue, which could get expensive. If there are no other problems I would just get in the habit of turning off the head lights every time I get out of the car. Once you do this for a week or 2 it is second nature and not really a bad habit at all. I catch myself turning off the already turned off lights even in the day time.
Did a few minutes research, here’s what I found for the 2003 Honda CR-V 2WD 2.4. Not sure if this applies to your car specifically, but might be helpful at least. It appears this is all done w/a computerized gadget called the “multiplex control unit” (MCU), apparently located on or near the under-dash relay/fuse box. In newer cars this would probably be called the body control module (BCM). The drivers door switch signal is on a green wire from the switch on or near the door to Q3 (presumably that identifies pin 3 of connector Q). The key in ignition switch signal is on a red/white wire and goes to X5. The headlight on switch is on a blue wire and goes to C11-0. It looks like all three potential alarm conditions ground the respective input signalto the MCU, key in ignition, headlights on, and door open. There appears to be an output from the MCU which indicates the key is in the ignition, and this illuminates an indicator light somewhere, probably on the dashboard. That output signal is on a white/black wire connected to X8.
First of all, I had the wrong info, sorry. The door open indicator on the dash wasn’t working and the dome light didn’t work either. Not sure how I missed all that. Following the advice here & what I found on the web, I pulled the plunger switch in the body & saw it was not quite seated properly. I pushed it together tight, re installed, and all works now. I did a quick check of all doors & the passenger side was doing the same. When I unscrewed the unit from the door, the switch stayed in the body. I pulled it out & fit it together, took 3 tries, and that works fine now. I’ve read this happens from the seat belt not retracting and when the door is closed it hits the plunger. Bothe my front belts hardly retract anymore, so I am going to call Honda. It is my understanding that seat belts warranties are for life. I know they fixed an issue with the buckle well after the warranty was over.
Anyway, thanks for all the assistance. It’s great to have a place to go & get help.
Thanks for the update TM, and congrats on your successful efforts to get the problem fixed.