1997 Chevy K1500 Turning signal problem

Ok so I have a 1997 Chevy k1500 my turn signals are not working , but my windshield wipers/Hazards are working I’m guessing it’s a flasher I know where the hazard flasher is but is there a separate Turning Signal flasher somewhere else ?

Replace the bulbs.

Why would I , if my hazards work


It’s called a combination flasher.



There is only one flasher, but there are two fuses. Power to the hazards is shared with the stop lamps (STOP/HAZ fuse 1 in the IP fuse block). Power to the turn signals is shared with the backup lamps (TURN-B/U fuse 16 in the IP block). Do the backup lamps work? Check fuse 16. If it is good, and all bulbs are good, and all wiring and connections in the turn circuits are good, then it could be a turn signal switch problem.

The STOP/HAZ fuse should be hot at all times, while the TURN fuse should only be hot in run/start. If there is still a problem with the ignition switch, it may not be supplying power to the TURN fuse.

Disclaimer: The above is referenced from a 1998 wiring diagram. I’m assuming '97 is the same. Earlier trucks (such as '95) did have separate flashers, but also had two fuses as described above.

Have you visually verified that on the outside of the truck? or are you just going by the lights on the dash?

Yes I have

If there was a short some where just curious it would cause my hazards not work also right Or atleast the flasher ? Bc I’m looking at the diagram , if the Hazard L.P. fuse is good and The Turn fuse is also good then it could be the flasher but if the flasher is good the next thing would be the turn signal switch

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That’s what I would be looking at.

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If there were a short in any of the wiring going to the bulbs from the switch, then the fuse(s) would blow in both hazard and turn mode. If there were a short in the fuse-to-turn-switch circuits, it would blow the individual fuse corresponding to the shorted circuit.

It appears power from both fuses goes through the hazard switch (hazard to normally open contacts, turns to a normally closed contact), then to separate inputs on the flasher. There could be a problem with the hazard switch, or with one of those inputs within the flasher.

Have you checked fuse 16 yet? At stated above, if good, then the switch, or possibly the flasher, would be a suspect.

If you have the wiring diagram and a test light or meter, make sure power is getting where it is supposed to and when it is supposed to, starting at the fuses and working out to the switches and flasher. Diagnose before prescribing.

Well ok so I had a problem before my truck trying to start its self in the on position , so something shorted out some where bc the fuse blown twice the Turn (16) but If I put a new one in the Turn (16) the truck will go back to trying to start by itself even if I pull the crank fuse (8)

That definitely sounds like a shorting issue. You’re just going to have to comb through the wiring to determine where the short is. There could even be a short within the I/P fuse block.

If the starter is activated even with the CRANK (8) fuse pulled, that isolates the problem to after that fuse, so everything before it (including the ignition switch) is likely okay. You’ll have to check for voltage where there shouldn’t be any in both the start and turn circuits.

Need to ask,
Does this truck have an aftermarket alarm or remote start ?
That’s the only thing I can think of that ties a blinker problem and starter problem together.

No it does not

Ok I’ll see what I can find

For the turn signal issue you most likely have a bad connection at the switch if one side is entirely out and the other side works okay. Can you hear the flasher working on the side with the fault. If so the problem is beyond the flasher.

Power is getting bridged onto the starter circuit from something. At a point where the wiring of the two circuits are close together. It may be in the harness going to the steering wheel. Hopefully the turn signal problem will clear up when you find the problem on the starter circuit. Look for signs of damage to the wire harness.

Well I did just replace the ignition switch because I thought it could be the cause of the ignition trying to crank it self over by it’s self , and both the ignition switch and turn signal switch connect onto a harness underneath the dash so maybe there ?