I take it you replaced the entire positive cable connection to the starter and that the connection is tight and clean to the starter as well.
I like rudimentary solutions to electrical problems because usually, part failure or resistance caused by loose wiring and/ or corrosion is the problem. Shorts are relatively rare, and trying to trace circuits for voltage loss or resistance is not only incredibly painstaking, it is generally fruitless.
You say you are getting voltage to your starter. I would guess you are using a yes/no circuit tester that either lights up or doesn’t if voltage is present where you test the voltage. If you have a bad connection, then testing the wire leading to the starter gives you the false impression that you are delivering thirteen plus volts cranking to your starter. If you read the starter lead and show a bright light, then you are likely getting enough voltage. If so, the starter should do something. Even if it is a weak clicking noise. If not, the starter may be at fault. It’s a very old part, and it doesn’t have a very easy job.
I’ve owned a lot of old cars, and I have spent an awful lot of time hunting down electrical problems, but I have found that most often the overlooked simple solution prevails. I have never in my life needed to replace a fusible link, but I have replaced dozens of starters, batteries, battery terminals and cables, and hsave simply tapped on my car’s starter for a year when I was a kid with a hammer every time to get it to start until I could afford to replace the starter.
There are a lot of potential solutions to your problem(s). Unless the car spent a good deal of time underwater, I still suggest you focus on the most obvious rather than on the arcane.
I will try tapping the solenoid which sits on top the starter and see if that does any good. There is no clicking noise of any kind. And as a side note, there is no power to the headlights either. There used to be power to the lights even with the key off. Does that provide any kind of clue?
Meanwhile I will try the tapping of the solenoid on top the starter to see if that gets a result. I have good power indications to the poles there. And yes, I’m using a yes/no circuit tester. I do get a bright light. Would a starter failure cause the entire system to crash?
I’ll also try tapping on the starter as well. It very well could be that it is original equipment.
Thanks for your help. Any more ideas are very welcome! I’ll keep the posts up on my progress.
I know this is going to sound unrelated, but I would replace the horn relay. I had several of this model truck with everything from the inline 6’s to v8’s years ago and I distictly remember having the same problem. The horn relay turned out to be the culprit. I can’t remember exactly the path of that circuit, but it caused the starter not to work and the headlights were inoperable just as you describe.
I will put in a call to the parts store and shall replace the horn relay! I will post the results! I have to heavy gauge wires that connect to it and they are live, but the horn itself has long been disconnected from the steering column. I think the former owner intended to install a horn button but never did. I will replace it! Thank you for the information. It is quite likely that something as mundane as the relay would the problem. Thanks again!
This engine will not crank and since it will not crank it does not run, am I correct? Have you tried “jumpimg the starter” with the coil hot wired? I am sure there is not anything like an electron shortage so who should care how many threads this post adds up too but 45 threads and this truck does not even crank yet? you are all fired.
Well no one is fired now!! The horn relay (and possibly the voltage regulator as well) did the job. In addition, cleaning all the contacts and ensuring that all connections were clean, dry and tight. Replacing all the fuses and the fusible link as well. But I think the secret was the horn relay! Now it starts with a touch to the key! Thank you to all the people who knew the secrets and contributed all the ideas of what to look for!!!
THE TRUCK RUNS!!! IT STARTS!!! ITS HAPPY!!! THE HEADLIGHTS WORK!!! THE FAN WORKS!!! THE DOME LIGHT WORKS!!! THE BLINKERS WORK!!! THE HAZARD WARNING LIGHTS WORK!!! THE HIGH AND LOW BEAMS WORK!!! ITS AN “OH MY GOD” MOMENT FOR SURE!!!
ALL I CAN SAY IS THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO THOUGHT ABOUT THIS AND CONTRIBUTED IDEAS, APPROACHES AND POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS!!!
I believe the horn relay and possibly the voltage regulator was the key and cleaning all contacts (which I will carry on), tightening all connections and doing this posting your combined thoughts and ideas took a truck that has not run since the problem occurred (2005 or earlier), and with the information everyone supplied and ‘stick-to-it’ attitude… it now starts like or better than a new truck!
I am grateful beyond words!!! And so is my WIFE!!! :-)))
I attached a couple of pictures, one which shows the actual parts I replaced and one which shows my celebration of the results!!! Thank you everybody!! Y’all did fantastic with your help and ideas… and I followed all your directions and ‘paid attention’ to the details, moved slow and methodical, and all of us got the job done!! Fantastic!! To be honest, I had no ideas at the get-go, but I HAD to try. Thank you for your heart and support through all of this!! I’ll keep this post open, because now I’m going to clean her up and spiff her out some… and I want y’all to see the results!
Again, thanks to everyone. And before I get to mushy… I’ll sign off!
I’m glad you got your 46 year old Chevrolet truck running. Let’s think about a 46 year old vehicle when your 1964 Chevrolet truck was made. You wouldn’t have had all these interconnected systems. The horn would have been operated by squeezing a bulb–nothing else would have been affected. The headlights wouldn’t have been connected to a battery–they would have been powered by acetylene and you would light them. As a matter of fact, you wouldn’t, in all likelihood, have had a battery anyway. You would have had a magneto ignition and instead of starting with a touch of the key, you would have started with a flip of the crank. You wouldn’t have had a blower motor for the heater–the heater would have been a lap robe.
In fact, many of the problems we see on this bulletin board would have been avoided. The fuel was fed to the engine by gravity–no fuel pump. You didn’t even have to worry about the windshield wipers parking in the wrong place–the wiper was hand operated and you parked it where you wanted it to park.
At any rate, you’ve mastered modern technology getting your truck running. After seeing the picture of your 1964 Chevrolet and comparing it with the new pick-ups, I like yours better. After seeing you and your 1964 Chevrolet pick-up, I wish I still had my 1950 Chevrolet pick-up.
Thank you for your comments! However, I wouldn’t say that I’ve ‘mastered’ modern technology! I can make things work mechanically but the electric has always been a mystery. I could not have done this and accomplished this task without all the advice and help from the community out there who have ‘been there - done that’ and I thank you all for your help. This has made my day and perhaps my millennium! I definitely remember the ‘older’ cars and trucks… so much simpler and I have fond memories of those times as well.
As a side note, I wish you had your 1950 Chevrolet pickup too!
Once again, to all those who have read and responded to my ongoing post… thank you so much for your help!! The alternative was not a good one!
I’m just so glad that it is running again. Its like stepping back… and forward… into the past… and the future!!
That was an amazing piece of news. I asked my wife who is a computer genius what the heck that was, and she told me. So… that furthered my drive to get one and replace the old one! It worked!!!
Your post tipped me off to that possibility! And the following post also re-affirmed that opinion. Y’all were right! Shucks/O’Reilly parts store had one in stock and assured me that it wasn’t going anywhere soon. I got it and carefully installed it… and IT WORKED!!!
Thank you so much for your contribution to this endeavor!!! I have posted pictures of both my celebration and the parts in question. Given that an “auto electrician” bills out at $110 an hour, I am a VERY HAPPY CAMPER!! Thank you and Goodness to God… thank you all for helping in this project. I have been able to start the truck with a ‘flick of the switch’ and I have been able to move it for the first time in about 5 years! Ya done good!!! And I think I might break my cheeks if I smile any bigger!!
Thank you for your help!!! You were right about the horn relay! There’s no waste of time in learning how to fix trucks or anything else. Too little knowledge of that sort is available these days! Thank you again and my wife thanks you and my truck thanks you!!
I’m happy for you yelbis, but did you ignore my advice that the relay above the voltage regulator was your problem? I’m glad you didn’t spend too much time or money before you replaced this part.The previous owner didn’t install the wires to get the horn to work, he installed them as push button starter switch.This was what I was trying to get at in my post.The relay worked intermittently until it finally died. You inherited an old lingering problem. At least you are learning about your truck.Keep on Truck’n!
I don’t believe I ignored that advice. It was the horn relay, and I replaced it. The horn is still hooked up to it (now) but there’s no connection to the cab area, no horn button or on the column button to push. So no horn, but the truck runs now. I consider myself well-advised though that I may still have a lingering problem! And yes, I am learning about the truck! Think I may know more about that than I do about my wife! I did spend a good chunk of time but (while I don’t have the total yet) I didn’t spend a lot of money for parts and such. This horn issue will be one of the next tasks to address. Thanks for your advice… and I never ignore advice. Thanks again!!! :-)))
This horn issue will be one of the next tasks to address.
Now let’s don’t go messing things up again! I think you can still get a Bermuda carriage bell from J.C. Whitney. It mounts under the floorboard and the rod that operates it by foot pressure comes through the floor. It is completely separate from the electrical system. Another option is a wolf whistle operated by engine vacuum. These still may be available. A truck as great as your 1964 C-10 deserves a unique sound.
Seriously, the horn repair should be easy. Most auto parts stores carry a horn button kit that mounts on the side of the steering column. The coil in the relay pulls the contacts together to let the power flow to the horn. The circuit to activate the coil is energized when the horn button completes the circuit to the chassis ground of the truck. I had to install this arrangement on my 1950 Chevrolet truck.
I agree that this truck needs a unique sound! Most likely the steering column button may be the pick though. I was thinking of ‘air horns’ like the type used on semi-trucks. Either way, the install should be a wee challenge. Thanks for the encouragement and ideas!! I am going to check out each one of your suggestions and keep watch for other ideas on the web sites that I will likely encounter. J.C. Whitney is a familiar name to me and I will start with them. Thanks again!! And it still starts!!
On my way.