When I recently replaced the air intake hose on my car, I noted that one of the bloggers suggested replacing the clamps. I did not do that, but am thinking of doing that now since one seems to be a little loose and I cannot seem to tighten it. It is sufficient to hold it “for now”, but I have been researching clamps to do replace it. Lots of stuff on the internet.
The clamp currently on it is the type that is in two parts and has double screws. I cannot seem to find that model. Maybe I am using the wrong name to find it.
How crucial is it to use the same clamp type? I see there is an ABA clamp that is good and then the double prong spring type with no screws. Will either of these work?
Well…the best clamps are made by Gates. Most automotive clamps that you find these days are made in China and they are junk. You probably need a “T-bolt or strap” clamp for your application. I’ve included a picture of a strap clamp. I have never used an ABA clamp so I can’t speak for their quality.
Can you post a photo?
Generally I prefer worm-type clamps, available at any hardware store and 100% stainless. But seeing the actual application might change my mind.
With worm-drives, the key is to not overtighten them.
worm gear clams suck but theyll get the job done. they apply most of the pressure where the screw is at but they should be good enough for air intake because there shouldnt be a ton of vacuum your just looking to keep stuff out. this is part of the reason why most car manufacturers use the spring clamps on coolant hoses because pressure is applied much more evenly around the hose. if your car is forced induction or have a little extra money i would go with the tbolt clamps its what i use on my turbo car.
What TSMB said. My big concern would be overtightening, the clamp here is just to keep the joint air tight and to keep it from falling off, which takes very little pressure. @Juanita - your description of a ‘two screw’ clamp makes me guess that the previous owner made do with two screw clamps from the hardware store, do they look something like two of these, connected end to end?
Prowrencher, I’m not even going to respond to such an insulting rely, especially when it shows an absolute lack of understanding of how worm drive clamps work. Don’t do that anymore.
And by the way, the reason manufacturers use spring clamps is because they’re faster and cheaper to install. I qualify that with 23 years of engineering and management experience in manufacturing organizations.
Go take some engineering courses. Learn how things work. And learn how to express different preferences without insulting others.
sorry i didnt mean to offend anyone but i have seen them leak at the bottom and its common sense how they work just look at it there a giant picture rite there
For the best in hose clamps, go to the service/parts dept. at any BMW dealership. There you will find that the slots in BMW hose clamps, normally flat-cut in American clamps, are rolled slightly outward in German clamps. This prevents the clamp slots from biting into the rubber hose material when the clamps are tightened.
Just another indication of attention to detail and superior German engineering. Danke.
@prowrencher - in my experience the worm screw clamps tighten all the way around, as shown by the even ridge of hose raised next all the way around the clamp when I tighten up one on, say, a radiator or heater hose.
The reason they seem to ‘leak at the bottom’ may be because that’s where the slowly leaking liquid will end up (because of gravity), while the screw is always at the top, for accessibility.
The ones I have in the car currently do not look like any of the above. I have attempted to draw it. See attached. They actually look like two Omegas, but stop at the halfwaypoint. The screw thingies hold the two edges together when screwed together.
I do like the idea of having the edges bent away from the hose to avoid cutting into it.
@Juanitia, I think you have 2 screw type clamps put together end-to-end like @texases wrote. Someone broke or lost the original clamp and used 2 to make one big one.
Best is relative, best for whom? The “best” hose clamp question can be a sticky one. Rubber tends to take a “set” when squeezed. This lets the clamp load applied by screw-type clamps relax a little. This can cause leaks that can be fixed by tightening the clamp a little more. Spring type clamps, while a great big PIA to remove and replace, hold steady clamping pressure. They can’t and usually don’t need to be tightened and lots of auto manufacturers use them. Oetinger clamps are one-time use clamps that also maintain clamping pressure.
I like the screw-type and t-bolt clamps depending on what I’m working on. An intake tube is not too demanding so pretty much anything that is easy on/off is the one to use (screw type…).
Agree with @texases
What good is the best clamp when a lesser one is more then sufficient. Matching needs is more important as the situation often determines what is best and not who makes it,
Tension on the strap of the worm drive clamp reduces the I.D. (inner diameter) closing the strap around the application with even pressure. Worm drives that cut into the hose are overtightened, a very common amateur application error. It’s very easy to overtighten them.
Mustangman made a good point about spring clamps, but I’ve honestly never had a hose leak when a properly installed worm clamp was used.
Spring clamps also have the advantage of being very fast and easy to install on the production line with the proper tools, and relatively error-proof. A spring clamp can’t be overtightened or left loose, and an improper installation is very easy to catch visually. Spring clamps also cost a small fraction of the cost of worm drive clamps, typically saving about 90-95% on the cost of clamps. In bulk, spring clamps are very inexpensive.
I might point out that in many cases the clamps on intake boots are somewhat specialized due to having slots in the band which fit over nubs on the boot and keep the clamp oriented a certain way.
