A couple of days ago I removed the key from my 1999 Toyota Tacoma (175,000 mies)and the power stayed on. Specifically, the ignition was in the proper “Lock” position when the key was removed, but the radio continued to play and the dash clock stayed lit. Normally, prior to this change, the radio turns off with the ignition being rotated to “Lock” and the clock LED turns off. There hasn’t been any abnormal force applied to the ignition. As well, I haven’t noticed any other electrical issues, but it still is operating in this abnormal way.
Has anybody else had this happen?
Does anybody have any ideas as to the cause?
After 175,000 miles worth of starts has my ignition switch worn to the point of “shorting on”?
+1for texases
Ignition/starter switches are designed with the off, accessory, on and start. When you turn the key to start, power is fed to the ignition and starter relay. In the on position, power is,fed to the ignition and accessories. ,In the accessory position power is,only fed to the accessories. In the off position, no power is fed to anything connected tbrough the switch. Chrysler introduced this key starting back in 1949. I didn’t think it made sense then, but the whole auto industry adopted it. I much prefer a simple locking on!off ignition switch and a floor mounted starter pedal. GM got it right in my 1947 Pontiac and 1950 Chevy pickup.
It has been a long time since I rode in a,1936 Chevrolet. It may have used the same system that Buicks used through 1960 where you stepped down on the accelerator to starrt the engine. I do know that the 1939 Chevrolet had a starter pedal as my dad owned one. When Chevrolet became more modern in 1949, it had a pushbutton starter switch. In 1953 Chevrolets adopted the key turn starter.
My 90’s Corolla has a similar problem. I can remove the key from the ignition without turning it to off. Because the key and lock are worn with use. Normally not a problem, but sometimes I accidentally don’t get it quite all the way to the off position when I park at the end of the day, and it runs down my battery a bit being in “on” overnight. I could replace the ignition lock of course, but that would be too easy … lol …
OP, you probably just need a new ignition lock. If you have a lot of stuff on your keychain, that extra weight contributes to the wear and tear on the lock, so if you want your new lock to last longer, see if there’s some stuff you can remove. I have one key on my keychain that I have no idea what it opens …
I’ve owned the truck for a number of years so am familiar with what is normal. Toyota follows the same standard ignition settings except for using the term “lock” for “off”. I only have a few keys on the ring, but maybe the previous owner had more. The power doesn’t go off when I open the door. The radio would continue to play as I walked away with my keys in hand if I didn’t turn the radio off manually. I’d end up with a dead battery if I forgot. I guess I was just surprised at how suddenly it occurred and seemingly out of the blue.
While replacing the ignition switch doesn’t seem technically challenging it does seem time consuming if I’m required to remove much of the dashboard trim. Is there a shortcut if you have the proper key? (Like replacing the lock cores on a roof rack).
I can’t remember if it was our 58 Chev or 61 that first came with an accessory position. The explanation was that if you use the on position without the engine on to use the radio, the power was going through the points and would cause wear. Thus the accessory position to cut the points out. Thats what I was told anyway when I was 13.
As far as the problem, it might be that the switch just needs to be adjusted a little. Its mounted on the column (or should be anyway) and can be slid a little up or down for adjustment. Might be off just enough to not shut everything down. Otherwise prolly new switch.