I have a '95 Isuzu Trooper and the pwr. windows just quit.
The drivers window is about 6 in down. Is there a way to
manually raise it until I can figure out what is wrong.
I have the panel off, wiring looks good. Must be the switch
circuit board.
The Glass Either Has A Couple Of Holes Or Sits In A Channel Along The Bottom
Either the glass (at the holes) or the channel, bolts to the window regulator (Lift mechanism w/ motor). You’ll probably have to unbolt the glass at the bottom so you can slide it up to a closed position and wedge a block of wood under it to hold it.
I have seen it work many times,give the motor a moderate wack with a hammer while holding the connected switch in the up position, it just may go up.
Why guess, check what status that the window motor contacts are in with the switch in the neutral position (should see ground on both terminals) when you move the switch to either up or down one side will show B+.
If no power is present you can provide power from another source (I have a fused probe to do this) It also helps it you have a test light that shows both power or ground (mine has a LED that goes green when ground is present and red when B+ is present, a quick check tool)
Grasp the top of the window with both hands and pull up. If it moves, then the regulator is broken. Otherwise, it’s the switch, motor, or wiring. You can also push from below if the you have the fascia panel off.
Still can’t raise the window. The board must be bad. It is about $225. OEM, don’t want to purchase
then find that’s not the problem. I don’t have the right test equipt. Welcome any suggestions.
If no windows work at all replace the fuse with one you know is good, cycle the interlock button on the drivers door panel, wiggle the wire bundle that goes from the body to the drivers door. Check to see if there’s power at the fuse.
I had a window do the same thing to me on a '92 Toyota Camry. The best way to get it raised is to open the door, press hands against both sides of the glass and push up. You may find it doesn’t line up with the slots quite right; try different positions forward and back.
Alas, then the darn thing tends to sag right back down again, just from the vibration of driving normal roads. Rather depressing, especially if the weather is cold and you have a long drive.
And why spend hundreds of dollars on a car that’s ten years old plus?
My Final Solution to Power Window Repair is rather simple: QUICK-SET EPOXY!! Rough up the top of the window with a nail file or sandpaper. Mix the epoxy and hardener together (usually with an ice cream stick on a piece of cardboard); coat the top of the window, then push it up and hold it for, oh, 30 seconds. For good measure, poke some of the epoxy goo down between the bottom of the window and the door frame. Most of these mixes harden in 5 minutes.
It works!! Of course that window will never open again. But if you have air conditioning and heat, no big deal.
Thanks for the suggestion. But I finally fixed it with a fuse. That’s right, the fuse that
runs the relays was blown. Don’t know what caused it in the first place. I spent 2-days
and about $150. in used parts and test equipment. Crazy!
H.
For your next repair, remember to replace the cheapest tings, like fuses, first.