2014 ford escape, my front passenger window stopped working. i’ve removed door panel to replace the motor+regulator - HOWEVER in order to remove the window from regulator you need to lower the window down so the bolt is accessible via a small hole - but there is no power to the window in order to lower it, and pressing down on it even with all my force does nothing.
I did not view the above video. If no power to the motor, the motor might be fine, and the problem is a break in the wiring. Check the wiring where it flexes between the car body and the door.
I thought about jumpering electrical power to the motor. But if the problem is no power to the motor (broken wire? fuse?), then why replace the motor and regulator?
You need to apply power directly to the motor to confirm whether the motor is bad or not.
Did the motor get slow or make noises for awhile before it failed?
Sudden failure to run is more likely the switch or wiring than the motor itself.
yes it was a kinda slow burn out for the window motor - after it first got stuck down, got it up with help of using hands + power. and for a few days was able to move up/down slightly when we would accidentally press the window button by habit.
each time that happened the motor sounded worse, like a grinding sound. then on day 3 or so when accidentally pressed again it came down 4 inches and then stuck and haven’t heard a sound of any kind out of the motor since then.
yea I guess that’s possible. ive tried what I could find to test wiring and fuse. fuse appears to have all windows on 1 fuse, and all the other windows work so I’m ruling that out. best I could do for wiring was have wife hold window switch while I pressed and moved around the wire tube between door and car to see if anything touches and it makes a motor noise, but no dice. I guess next step would be opening that wire tube part up though for a visual inspection too.
thank you - I went to look at mine and with my luck the window is stuck about 4" down already - so that bolt is way down there can’t reach it. I can’t win lol.
Did you verify there is no power to the motor with a test light or volt meter?
From your description, the window regulator cable is bound up on the spool. Cut the regulator cable and the window will drop so you can access the glass retainers.
I would tape the window to the door if you cut the cable. just in case. so, it does not come crashing down. I would check to see if you are getting power to the motor. you can also run wire from the fuse box or battery to the motor connector to see if the motor moves.
thank you, I haven’t tested with volt meter so that will be my next move. and big thanks on the regulator cable cut idea - I did see a video where someone did that but on a totally different vehicle and wasn’t sure if that would be ok or not on mine. but I’ve got the parts to replace the whole thing anyway so might as well. will dig around for that cable
the master switch on the driver’s door seem to go bad. especially the driver’s window switch in it because it is used the most. it has to be replaced as a whole unit. you can see if you can pull one of the connectors for one of the other windows on the master switch and change it with the driver’s window switch to see if it makes the driver’s window work. if it does you know it is the master switch that needs replacing.
ah I didn’t think of that. it’s actually my passenger side but still gets used a ton. I’ll pull one off one of the other doors and hook it up to see if that could be it. good lookin out thanks a bunch
I disagree. Motor and regulator are often sold as an assembly and aren’t that expensive. If it’s “grinding”, it’s most likely the cable is bound up on the regulator. There aren’t really that many parts to throw in this situation.