Oldsmobile Aurora door speaker replacement

I have a blown door speaker in my 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora 3.5. I can get a double cone replacement speaker from Auto Zone for about 15 bucks and save a hundred or so…if I can figure out how to replace the old one without ruining the door.

Any tips on getting the old one out and new one in would be greatly appreciated.

I’d upload a picture of the door, but don’t know how to do that here, so here’s a link to the image file on imageshack.com



http://yfrog.com/j5auroradoorwebj

That bezel you see around the speaker should just pop off. Use a pry tool that has no sharp edges to remove the bezel. Here’s what I use to remove interior trim pieces. http://www.toolsource.com/trim-fastener-molding-removal-p-95451.html?osCsid=7uecvtc68udjb8pqne9ablrre3

Tester

Have you ever removed one of these in an Aurora, Tester? Your advice is normally spot on, but my Taurus has a panel that LOOKS like this, and you would think that you could pop it out, but you can’t - you have to remove the whole door panel (kid shoved a bead down into the door and it was rattling in the speaker and driving me nuts).

You’re probably right, but I’d hate to see the OP mar up their door trying to get a trim piece out when they’d have to remove the whole panel…

In my experience (2000 Blazer) when one door speaker blows, the other side is soon to follow.

For a few dollars more, try Crutchfield for a set of aftermarket speakers. Included with the speakers are installation instructions, mounting brackets (if needed) and wiring harness adapters. Here is a list of speakers for a 2001 Aurora without a Bose system.

http://www.crutchfield.com/g_400/All-Car-Speakers.html?tp=105&l=C

Ed B.

Thanks fellows.
I tried prying the cover off a few days ago and all that did was make the distortion worse.
The sales weenies at Best Buy said the same thing; that the entire door panel must be removed.
I’ll look at Crutchfield’s package. It’s always good to have detailed instructions. One of the frustrating things about this car is that, since it was such a low volume product, there isn’t even a Haynes or Chilton’s manual for it, so you have to figure it out as you go. Working on the rear brake pads was LOTS of fun. :slight_smile: