We’re finally purchasing instead of getting a new lease. This will be our first owned car. Question is- Hyundai recommends Quaker State oil but we don’t want to use the dealership for changes due to such high prices and no one else really uses QS oil. (DIY is not an option.) Whats the real info on using other synthetics and knowing what will work best long-term?
There is absolutely nothing “special” about Quaker State oil, and–IMHO–you would be better-off with Mobil-1. Other forum members will surely have other recommendations, but I seriously doubt if anyone will state that Quaker State possesses some sort of unique qualities.
Just be sure that you DO NOT go to any of the quicky oil change places… if you value your engine, transmission, cooling system, and brake hydraulic system. The incidence of putting the wrong fluid into the wrong system at those places is… huge.
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Dealer prices for oil changes are not that much higher than other places plus you have records for warranty purposes . As long as you use the right weight oil and what it calls for the brand does not matter.
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Your Hyundai dealer probably recommends Quaker State just because they have it in stock. There is nothing special about its oil.
As others say, Hyundai itself would list only a SPECIFICATION for the oil in their maintenance manual that comes with the car, not any brand!.
Mobil1 is one of the world’s best oils and if you buy the right viscosity (":thickness") you can’t go wrong.
You also don’t need to go to the dealer for regular maintenance items. Just keep all your receipts for work done.
The ONLY reason they recommend Quaker State is because that’s who they have a contract with. As stated…nothing special about Quaker State. It’s a good oil (although 40+ years ago they had issues).
In your owners manual you’ll find a section on oil and what grade and weight oil to use. Most if not all of the oil manufacturers will make an oil that meets or exceeds the grade recommended. Just make sure you get the right weight.
Find a good independent or do the oil changes yourself. Stay away from the chains.
Hyundai is known to be sensitive to the “proper” type of oil filter.
It’s not about filter been “good” or “not good”, this is about their engines being sensitive to the drop of oil pressure introduced by the filter, so the general recommendation is to make sure that an OEM filter is installed when oil is changed.
Using “wrong” filter might (but will not necessarily will) result in rattling sounds from the engine, which is likely not good for longevity too.
And… YES… stay away from quick lube places.
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So?
What does one do when the nearest dealer is 100 miles away,?
But the nearest parts store is 10 miles down the road?
If that were true, I’d never buy a Hyundai.
Tester
it seems we are in consensus, I’m not shopping for Hyundai either 
on more serious note, I’ve read about this “filter sensitivity” in forums, when a friend of mine brought up his Sonata’s rattling engine noise after an oil change… my first knew-jerk reaction was “likely they used the oil of too low thickness, you have to replace oil”, then I’ve read it may be about filter and suggested him to replace filter only… but it ended up he replaced the car
if DIY is not an option, then keep your eyes out for dealer coupons. I’m not personally sure about Hyundai, but for my wife’s Chevy- when it was under warranty, it was cheaper for me to use the dealership for oil changes than for me to do it myself, plus I’d get a tire rotation and a free car wash.
I had to always listen to (and refuse the unnecessary upsell,) but the coupons made it hard to resist letting the dealership do the oil changes. (and still sometimes now, the coupons or specials can’t be beat.)
If Hyundai engines are that sensitive to oil filters (which I doubt), then find out who makes Hyundai oil filters and buy them from your local store. Hyundai does NOT make oil filters.
Or go to Amazon.com or even Ebay and buy Hyundai OEM filters there.
Personally (I’m with you)…buy a good quality filter from a good manufacturer and you’re fine.
I own a Kia but the oil filter issue is the same. As long as the filter is equipped with an anti-drain back valve it is good to go.
I’d suggest you reconsider. Oil changes at a dealer vs a local shop changes your cost of ownership of a new car almost insignificantly.
Agree on that! My local Mazda dealer charges about $8 more than the local Jiffy Lube place or Walmart and at least I’m sure they are draining the right fluid and putting in the correct oil and amount.
The local Toyota dealer is just up the road and I have used them since 2007. Never a problem.
The dealer may charge more, and there’s nothing special about Quaker State oil, but having the oil change records in the dealer’s databanks may prevent problems if you should have a warranty issue.
If you use an independent shop and keep your copies of the shop orders for the oil changes, that too will be sufficient evidence that you’ve met the manufacturer’s requirements. You should always keep all records for your car. Do NOT use quickie lube shops.
Enjoy your new ride.
Just curious what does your dealer charge versus your independent shop?
The price difference would really have be large for me to not use the dealer for something that only has to be done twice a year on our Frontier truck and every 7000 miles on the Volvo.
Also I washed the Volvo today and I did it at home with the hose ( someone posted recently that would damage the paint ) and I also buffed the wax after it dried to a haze ( someone posted here to put the wax on and leave it for a week before buffing it off ).
I think there are two topics what can spark a long discussion in a forum: “what is a good oil to use?” and “what is a good filter?” 
everybody seem to have their own favorites, which is mostly OK as long as it is not the bottom-priced items from unknown vendors
OEM is a safe bet if getting victory in a long crusade is not on the priority list
The one that meets or exceeds the OEM’s specifications.
One that meets or exceeds the OEM’s specifications.
Tester
A lot of new engines are sensitive to the oil filter, mainly engines that use 0w20 synthetic oil. It has to do with the bypass valve.
The bypass valve opens when there is a difference in oil pressure between the input side and the output side. Specifically if the oil pressure is much higher on the input side than the output. It means that for some reason, oil is not flowing fast enough through the filter. It can be when the oil is cold and therefore thicker or the filter is getting clogged up.
The bypass valve is a delta P device which is geek for difference in pressure. The filters for the newer vehicles with 0w20 synthetic oil have lower delta P also written as dP. A lower dP will open sooner and provide higher pressure, which the thinner oils need to protect your engine.
Any brand oil that meets the manufacturers specifications will work fine. There really isn’t a lot of difference from one brand to another, but we all have our favorites. Any major brand oil filter that is listed in the catalog will also work just fine. Most major brands have good/better/best for the same filter number. The better/best are usually more suited for the synthetic oil and extended drain intervals.
If your going to change your oil more frequently than the recommendation in your owners manual, you can use a lower grade filter if you want to. If you follow the schedule exactly, then you will need one of the upgraded filters. Either way is fine, your money, your choice. Just don’t use cheap oil and filters and then go past the recommended interval, that’s not going to be OK.
It was George
