The info from Whopperdoddle is very nice to know. Whooperdoddle, have you checked the all power leads to the BCM to make sure they were ok with the blinkers both off and on? It would also be interesting to know if the blinkers work ok with the key ON and engine OFF. Could one of you check that and post the results of that test.
I suspect the trouble may be with either with the power connection to the BCM or the in the BCM itself. Perhaps a relay also.
Are you willing to discount the connection between you hitting a pot hole and the condition with your cars electrical system?
Hi everyone - My car is currently at Buick and the problem they have found was the ignition switch…I hope this helps anyone else that may have experience this problem or that is currectly experiencing this auto problem. Thank you all for your replies. Have a great week!
These are always the most “fun” to fix. I recall fixing a friend’s car once that had a mysterious problem. I showed up one time around dusk and noticed his tailights were faintly lit. We dug around for a bit and fortunately, he had the factory manuals and schematics. To make a long story short, a ground wire in the trunk had been pulled loose when he threw a tire in there. Electricity has a way of find alternate paths when the preferred one is missing. The tail lamps were acting as the ground path for something else (I forget the exact details now). Imagine a scenario where the preferred ground is missing and the BCM is finding “relative” ground through the tail lamps. When the turn signals are activated, the “relative ground” is now alternating between 0V and 12V. When it hits DC bus positive level, there is no longer enough DC differential to power the BCM and it shuts down.
Found the problem. Grrr.
On my vehicle the PINK wire coming from the Ignition switch was only providing 8 volts DC instead of full battery voltage. So a load would cause a “brown out” that most people can identify with. A bad connection inside the switch.
Solution tp this problem: Replace the Igntion switch assy! (NOT the lock cylinder)
If you want to attempt it yourself, you’ll need a special E4 (inverted torx) to get the bolts out of the ignition switch. You can get a switch from a dealer or autozone, etc. for $100 or so.
Why was the sympton present only when load from turn-signal/ hazard was applied and not other systems?