Little red box lower right. Now at 60/60. #60 comment out of 60 total. Oops, now 61/61.
DP4T is usually said by electronics types as “Double pole, 4 (or quadruple) throw” “Double pole” means there are two parallel switches, and “4 throw” means each switch has 4 possible positions.
Status update:
I had the 2 starter wires id’d connected an the switch properly aligned so it was turning over the motor, but my mechnic, not knowing electrical and going by another incorret wiring diagram, not understanding that colors on the diagram almost never correspond to reality, removed those.
It has been days tring to get that part bak, which I did by connecting the voltmeter across the 3 supply side wires, etending the meter leads into the cab and finding which wire wnet hot when i put the key in the “START” position. Then i took a jumoer lead from the battery and tested which ne engaged the starter., Now i’m deling with 2 issues:
1.) The switch is out of align, so not making contact and tuning ther starter,
2.) I ID’d the other groung wire which should show the shifter position, but not getting anything so have been checking to see if the position indictor only shows when the motor is running, but have not found any info on this.
So if you have insight on this it will be appreciatd as I’ve not had transport for over 6 wks now!
Cheers!
TBNK
My only advice would be to tow it to a dealer and let the unscramble this mess. Then pay the man.
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Very interesting, I have not had that issue with wiring diagrams…
I have a 49 pin connector at the TCM, from a Snap On scanner, not a cheap one, that showed me the connector and each wire color as well as what they are for… I said it before, you get what you pay for, your mechanic doesn’t know electrical (your words) and you can’t get the correct info, although I am pretty sure db4690 has already posted it for you it looks like it is in post 52 on this tread…
If you can’t find it then just scroll up until you see 3 pictures of wires and connector (schematics)…
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Take it to a dealer and lose that so-called mechanic that “doesn’t know electrical”
I agree with @bing you’ve already paid much more in time and effort the the repair would probably cost.
After all the efforts, craziness, discouragement and disappointments; we got this fixed. Reason we could not find the REAL problem was absolutely no wiring diagrams showed or even hinted at the problem.
Turns out there is a 7.5Amp fuse in the internal Cab Fuse panel, labeled “Eng 2”, that blew and no prints, diagrams show this fuse nor it’s relation to this problem. Turns out without it the LCD display for the Shifter position does not light up and there is no indication that the ckt it fires is an interlock in the entire Starter ckt.
As soon as we replaced it all problems solved!
Cheers!
TBNK
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The only question is who is we? I suspect a dealer mechanic would have been wise to this. Maybe not but would file it away for future use.
Years ago my olds diesel mechanic said the repair manual is wrong and adjusted the pump timing accordingly. Never ran better. I
Sorry, but you don’t get an attaboy from me
afaik, you were unwilling to pay the $25 or so to log onto the Kia technical information website, where you would have found everything you needed
and there is a 7.5amp fuse labeled “ENG” at the top of the wiring diagram that I provided for you, along with all the other information I gave you, which your “mechanic” wasn’t willing to obtain 
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I have said this before, but don’t just check the fuse(s) you think it is, check every freaking fuse in the vehicle, you would be surprised what you find sometimes…
And I even told you db4690 had posted what you needed… So, this would have been over 2 months ago IF you would have just done what was recommended… 
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I wonder if the ENG 2 fuse is actually located in this block-
Notice it says- see passenger compartment fuse details
Good for you for getting your Kia back on the road OP. The fuse does seem to show up in @db4690’s diagram above. I would have guessed one of the first thing’s a shop tech would do when starting the diagnosis for this symptom is probe the common point on that switch to make sure it has power. Years ago I had a job to train the non-technical staff how do lab experiments, and the first thing I’d tell them is “make sure the instruments are plugged in” and turned on. Even after my instructions, 90% of the time they would fail to do this and come find me to figure out why nothing was working … lol …
It does? Where did you see ENG 2?
Fwiw- my gm vehicles often have multiple ENG fuses; ENG, ENG 1, ENG 2…
You are right. The type on the original diagram is too small to read accurately. Post 51 does show a 7.5 A fuse labeled “ENG” but it doesn’t say “ENG 2”. I was guessing its the same fuse, but maybe it isn’t.
No surprise there .
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