Have you paid the $20 or $25 to log onto the Kia professional information website, which will give you all that information . . . ?
GSJ and All,
When ever a control is involved you throw away the NEC ode book and go by the ASME/SME electrical Code which totally prohibits all wire nut. Why? All wire nuts ARC, which confuses a control, so can never use them.
ASME/SME give you 3 ways to connect by: a.) Solder, b.) Gerneys, c.) Screw down blocks!
We will be using solder with heat shrink tubing, but have to test using clip-on test leads to get it all right!
Cheers!
TBNK
When people read they understand we already have the pigtail, but no pin out and no test procedure to insure we get the wiring right!
TBNK
All,
We got the repair manual but absolutely nothing for this problem.
I’ve searched for a pin-out diagram, found none. I’ve figured out a way to pin it out and make a schematic of the switch, but the hard part will be properly testing and ID of the wires; so I know What wire connects to what pin!
I’ll start by testng voltages on the wires, ince i’ve learned there is both 5vdc & 12 vdc. I already know which pin is the drive pin, since that was the pin that blroke of in the old TNSS we replaced 6 month ago!
Cheers!
TBNK
Cheers!
TBNK
Clearly, that was not a universal truth since that’s how I bought mine.
Either that, or perhaps gas was cheap back then 
In reality, the value of information is sometimes hard to put a price on… Ten dollars back then may have been a bargain compared to what was gained by having the manual…
A tidbit of information is hardly asking to “borrow their books”. I have found the guys working the service counter to be fairly accommodating depending on how and when you approach them. If they’re busy- forgettabboutit, come back later. Otherwise, it not that inconveniencing for them to swivel a monitor your way with some information displayed on it. Especially if you ask in the right way and even better, buying some part from them but need info.
I was inquiring at the service desk about a replacement tail light for a truck. It was smashed when I got rear-ended. The parts guy and some of the mechanics were hanging around the desk when he told me the price. We had been jawing a bit while he was looking it up so perhaps they had some good feelings toward me- I have a number of friends that work in the vehicle repair business. It was quite expensive as expected. One of the mechanics told me to hang on a minute and came back with a perfectly good tail lamp assembly. Told me he took it off a wreck and was saving it but figured I could use it. Things were different back then, I brought back a suitcase of beer for them to enjoy after work…today it might be breakfast or bagels…
The manufacturers dealer shop manuals were like 2 inches thick telling procedures bolt by nut, tool by tool, torque, etc. And large numbers of updates and service bulletins, a lot of them stamped " Confidential". And some bulletins contained secret warranties advising procedures to be performed without telling the customer.
I printed out the wiring diagram, connector pin-out and color code definitions
I’ll scan it all in and attach it this evening
Nowhere did I say or suggest that your vehicle had/has a TCM, if you slow down and read the reply’s again, I was using the TCM from a different vehicle as an example of what a pro level scanner has in it and access to more info, as my buddy’s had the connecter pin out for diag purposes of the TCM that I was referring to, as well as I was adding to db4690’s post about the having access to a pro level scanner…
With that being said, my whole point was that if you had found a shop or mechanic with the proper tools and info this matter would have been taking care of on day one…
Are the wire cavities shown on the replacement connector? On larger connectors the numbers are usually only in the corners: 1–4, 5------12.
The wiring diagram shows the wire color and cavity number, with this information you should be able to connect the replacement connector.
An example of a connector showing the cavity numbers;
That would be my approach as well. The car’s wiring diagram is definitely available from several sources, including the dealership and Kia corporation, albeit for a price. No need for a connector pin-out diagram. @Nevada_545 may have access to the diagram, being a pro-mechanic, but probably isn’t allowed to convey the info due to copyright & fair-use documentation restrictions.
The “introduction” page has the connector color abbreviations . . . each wire has a different color
The transaxle range switch is apparently what you were calling a “neutral safety switch”
IMO, you now have all the information you need
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Looks pretty straight forward to me… I would draw a line from each number (top row 4,3,1 and bottom row 10,9,8,7) on the connecter C21 picture from your 2nd page posted and label each with the correct wire color and pin/solder away…
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If the pins themselves are in good shape, I’d personally just insert the old wires and pins into the new connector . . . that way, the wire colors technically wouldn’t have changed
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Or at least cut the wires on the new pigtail as short as possible to still be able to solder them together as the OP said he would do, and then tape it up as to not see the new “wrong” color wires so the next guy doesn’t get to confused…
I meant it as a very low price for a very well done service manual. Good illustration and well written. I a,so thought that the fact the order form was in the owners manual meant they wanted people to know how to repair them. I think I was making $3.50 an hour back then.
I think I paid about $100 for my next olds manual in 75. Might have been up to $5 an hour then.
All,
Hey guys the reason this one is so difficult, is that when the flexwheel went out last year, we got in contact with the KIA parts warehouse and the parts man informed me that the 2006 KIA Sedona has 6 parts books as there were 5 major design revisions after the first release, so even with the VIN they first sent us the flexwheel for the 3.1 engine, instead of the 3.8 engine one.
Also understand the technical, electrical or schematic term for this switch is: DP4T, which means: Double Pole (commons), 4 Toggle (positions). I have taken pix of both the male (switch) and the female (connector) and will edit the pix assigning pin numbers, since there are no findable wiring for my model.
Then understand that as we were testing this, the switch itself failed, for using our voltmeter, when we should have been able to find the common for the 4 positions and find the common and key to starter side P & N, but there was absolutely no connections anywhere.
We’ve reordered the switch replacement so when the new one arrives I will pin it out and draw a complete schematic of this wiring so others can benefit.
I think this will be the last KIA i’ll own as the 2004 I had before had connector issues with the alternator and then threw the transmission. Just to many problems in to short if time.
Cheers!
TBNK
1 Like
PS
My pix editing is on my Linux Server which I just have to move, so have to go through complete setup on that, so will be a while bfore I get that out here!
TBNK
You could copy the schematic shown in post # 52 for your new drawing, but I don’t think we need another schematic.
Nevada_545,
How do I find post $52? New yo this forum so do not know it’s contols and search capbilities yet!
TBNK