Honda trys to start but wont w/out starter fluid

I hate wiring. Best you can do if you can get a schematic and try to trace.

I once was trying to splice a new section of wire that i suspected was bad. Factory wires and factory schematic. Black wire in bundle, but three black wires. Picked the wrong one and dead short to injector. To the shop once more.

My take if the wires are not connected to anything, even the bulbs out of the socket should not make a difference. My guess the previous owner thought it an electrical issue. Weird stuff can happen so I would start looking at any aftermarket items. As an example I tapped into an ignition on 2 way radio for a power point in the rear of a sienna van. If the guy had the recharging spotlight plugged in, not even on the key would not turn the engine off.

Maybe the guy wired in a kill switch and then pulled it out and the wire are loose. Monster. When I did that for the kids Acura I tied into the fuel relay to cut the pump off.

There is a spoiler with a light, it doesnt work but guys said it did last time he checked, is that something that has to be wired in like what your talking about? Or is it suppose to be just rigged into the the brake light wiring? (Not sure if i explained that right but hopfully you get what i mean? This is definitely going to be a learning processes. :joy:)

irrelevant. We have no way of knowing if you are female or not, nor if you are a season, trained professional or not. Pointing out some basics is not an insult, just a way to make sure bases are covered.

so does it work? or not?

Are you sure such a thing exists for your Civic? My similar-era Corolla is OBD I, and as far as I know there is no OBD I scan tool (code reader) for it. Doesn’t mean I can’t read the codes, just done using a special test mode, codes are blinked out on a dashboard light in a sort of Morse code fashion. No scan tool required.

If replacing MAP sensor fixed the won’t-start problem, I think that may be the first time here that replacing a MAP sensor solved a poster’s problem. No moving parts in that gadget, so pretty robust. Connector to MAP sensor, or portion of ECM circuity that communicates w/MAP sensor more likely to be problematic than sensor itself.

In 50 years I’ve never replaced a map. A few maf sensors though.

I had a 95 which was right when they did the switch to obd2. As couldn’t read the codes. It took the sealer with their high priced scanner to get the codes. The information on obd1 would be limited but still should be able to get basic info on the sensors.

OBD I technology considerably less complicated than OBD II, so fewer things a code is needed for. Can’t speak to every OBD I car design, but my Corolla’s OBD I, evap system (a big source of diagnostic codes reported here) passive, no computer controlled actuators, no sensors, etc, so no codes. There are pre-cat O2 sensor codes, but no post-cat codes b/c no post cat sensors. No variable valve timing, electronic ignition there is, but using distributor so no coil on plug codes needed. No ABS, no air bags. Basic engine is similar to OBD II version, computer controlled fuel injection etc, but overall the OBD I version makes for a much simpler system. EGR system does have a sensor to detect the amount of EGR gas flow, so there’s a code for that.

UPDATE!!!

Engine light doesnt work period for those who asked. Im assuming because it has a swapped engine. Idk. But doesnt work, but is what it is.

Also, MAP sensor has fixed start up problem. As for the idol and bog down problem the throttle cable needed adjusted it was way out of wack. This lady now drives and purs like a kitten.

All there is left to fix before i get to making her look pretty is my brake light issue.

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Congratulations. Do you have a schematic for the brakes. A question would be if the third light is on the same circuit as the tail brake lights. I would guess but maybe not. Of course then fuses, wire junctions, ground wire pulled out, fun.

OP I think this is the first time – at least by reports here — that replacing a faulty MAP made a car a runner again. OP, does the replaced MAP hold vacuum? A rupture developing in the diaphragm inside the MAP seems the most likely failure mode.

Yes i had that check today, to be sure i fixed the problem.

Just add that it wouldn’t be beyond the realm of possibilities.that both bulbs are burned our. I was following a fairly new suv yesterday that only the high light worked. Unusual but if the guy before was a hack . . .