I have noticed a problem with the driver side door panel. I can’t roll my window up or down from the driver side, and I can not lock or unlock doors from that side so I have to get out, go to the passenger side and lock my doors from there. Within a few hours, my doors will be unlocked on their own and I was not given a fob to make it easier on me. So, it is looking like an electrical problem, right? Will that be pricey to fix? I went for an oil change and while running the diagnostics, I have cylinders misfiring and the car almost jerks gently when stopped at red lights. Also, when the car is parked in my driveway, a slight incline, I use my parking brake, but I have noticed that my odometer goes up while the vehicle is sitting! For example, I parked one day at 90,311 miles and came out the next day to 90,313. Is that electrical as well, or could it be due to the fact that I’m parked on a slight slope? Sorry it’s a lot… Any help is appreciated! Thank you in advance!
Hi! I recently purchased a 2007 Chrysler Sebring (first car! yay, right?) but I have been noticing problems since I purchased the car from a private seller
Now that you own a Chrysler vehicle, you need to be aware of this.
Just because your vehicle isn’t listed here, doesn’t exclude it from having problems with this module.
I really hope you got this thing cheap . You have what is going to be a money pit . Not a criticism but when it did not have the remotes you should have walked. And no the angle it is parked will not make the odometer reading change. If it was my vehicle I would just find a way to trade it off because the amount of money it will take is more than this thing is worth even in good shape.
You would think 60 years would be enough time for one make to have electrical gremlins…the gift that keeps on giving. How much did you pay for it and can you get that money back (or close) if you resell it? This was your first education into the foray of buying a used vehicle. I know it seems like Monday quarterbacking, but if you can, try to take your next potential vehicle to a decent mechanic to give it a look before you buy it. If you don’t mind my asking, what price range were you looking for in a vehicle? I think you should bail out on this one before putting a dime into it. If you are looking in the $1000-$3000 range it’s nothing to be ashamed of, we were all there once!
More than 80% of the cars I have owned in the last 60 years have been Chrysler products and have never had any unusual or frequent electrical failures. This despite the fact that a lot of them my ownership just interrupted their trip to the junkyard. I loved the old slant sixes, you could change the starter from under the hood with a crescent wrench. I did just remember one electrical part that failed more than it should have and that was the ballast resistor. They cost a buck and I kept one in the glove box. They were on the firewall drivers side and you did not even need a wrench, jist unplug and replug and let it hang by the wires until you got home.
I’m sorry to hear that you are having problems with your vehicle.
I’m sorry that you purchased a Chrysler FCA product.
Alternatively, Even though you bought this from a private party and it was a as-is sale. The seller, in my opinion, is liable for failure to disclose.
I would maybe get a written estimate
Look into your local state statutes and reach out to the seller.
- Tell them everything that wrong give them a copy not the original of the repair estimate
A) Ask them for a full refund and say this sale is a No
B) Ask them to fix the car (this will hurt them)
C) Ask them to give you half the cost of the total repair bill
D) get the a attorney
To disclose what? Everything was working when he took possession, OP noticed all these problems later,
OP would have noticed he can’t get out the drivers door or that windows didn’t work, or that is was misfiring and jerking at stop lights when he test drove it.
Hopefully he learned it’s worth the $125 or so to have a mechanic do a pre purchase inspection
" I have been oticing problems since my purchase"
I felt he got taken advantage of
Meaning those problems were not there when he purchased it.
A. Refund not going to happen B. Fix car also not going to happen C. Half of cost, Nope D. Attorney will be a lot more than what was probably paid for this vehicle.
IMO the OP’s root problems have nothing to do with it being a Chrysler.
He bought a 12+ y.o. car with apparently no due diligence. Caveat emptor.
Every used car is sold for a reason.
The smart buyer doesn’t let that be a surprise.
That’s probably a faulty switch in the driver’s side door panel or some abraded insulation in a wire that goes through the door panel to the body (near the door hinges). Or multiple actuator problems. Your shop will probably first visually inspect the wires in the hinge area, then remove the door panel and test the door lock and window up/down circuity using a volt meter to figure out what the actual problem is. The solution will likely be pretty simple, but there could be some expensive diagnostic time, and the parts cost if the actuators have failed might be fairly expensive too.
You’ll have lots of different cars along the way, so don’t overly worry about this one’s problems; consider it a learning experience. When you decide to buy your next car, post here before writing any checks.