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Ok i had to slam on my brakes to not rear end someone who slammed on their brakes to not rear end someone else. Since then my Antilock brake light and Low traction light come on after driving about 2 or three miles. Also my brakes feel a little more squishy then normal. Help? Anyone?

The year of car and mileage would be helpful, first thought a 10year old car with 100k that needs a master cylinder, but that is not as helpful as a real world diagnosis.

Herein lies one of my biggest gripes about all this fancy new technology.
The second you demand that it works for its intended purpose …it’s broken forever after !
They cost more to buy upfront then they cost even more to repair just because you needed to use it…once !

Barkydog’s right. Can’t really go into any depth until we know those details.
Might have blown out a seal somewhere. Are you losing brake fluid? If so, don’t drive it.

“The second you demand that it works for its intended purpose …it’s broken forever after !”

I have to disagree with that sentiment.
Although I rarely have to call upon my ABS, I have never found that the system is “broken forever” after I use it. This statement is based on occasional application of ABS on at least 3 cars over the past 16 years. I have NEVER had a problem with the ABS on any of my cars.

Why is my experience so different from Ken’s experience?

oh sorry, was yelling at the kids as i was typing it out. Year is a 2000 and mileage is 200k+ with a 3800 series II supercharge engine. Have owned the car since 2007 and never had any issues until this weekend.

Proper diagnostic for a proper repair

The ABS module stores codes when the light goes on. Retrieving the ABS codes should be the first thing. However, you’ll need to visit a mechanic. The auto store code readers don’t pull ABS codes.

Also, I have ABS in my '88 Toyota Supra, 279K miles, and my 2000 Ford Explorer, 239K miles. The ABS in the Toyota was activated last year during a bad rain, and the Ford was tested 2 weeks ago during a snow storm in Minnesota with miltiple activations over 5 days on slick, icy roads. Both worked as they should, and did not break. I’m with VDCdriver, wondering why my experience is also so different?

Just spitballin here.
If the pedal bottomed, sediment at the end of the master cut the piston’s seal. The same can happen to the ABS piston. Especially if it isn’t used in years. Use it or loose it.

@chunkyazian is very likely correct. Slamming the pedal in a panic stop will push the MC piston farther than normal.

I have driven many GM cars and vans at work and we are constantly having problems with them. I only owned one GM car with abs (a 98 Olds Intrigue) and the abs was terrible. If you hustled down a curvy country road with icy spots, the poor thing would be pulsing the pedal and flashing the dash lights for the rest of your trip on dry roads. Only shutting off the car and letting it set would stop it.

It’s a Buick Regal GS or a Pontiac Grand Prix GTP? I suspect that it’s just a coincidence. Have your mechanic check it out. BTW, when was the last time the brake fluid was changed, and what is the current level? You can see it through the translucent reservoir on the firewall.