I was thinking of removing it and s quaring it up while it lay on the ground, but the problem is I’d have a tough time getting it back on the hinge & spring hardware. It’s really, really heavy. A spring broke last summer and it was a huge chore even to get the door into it’s “up” position to replace the spring. A neighbor happened by and offered to help otherwise I’d still be working that one …
Garage door springs can be very dangerous!! Stupid question maybe, but adjusting the wire ropes like adjusting a window blind might be an option, It might require a little tweaking on the rails to allow for the shift, but I am just a hillbilly looking for the easiest cheapest quickest answer for a door that does not fit flush to the floor. Just to stop patting myself on the back I take it the rubber molding is out of consideration.
Not a whole lot of information but you can Google tilt up garage doors and have a little fun but I really only saw one little picture of the inside framing and bracing. The diagonal bracing on this one is the boards themselves. Yeah if it’s too heavy, then you have to try to jack it back square somehow first.
@George_San_Jose1 Just a few more thoughts. If the door is bowed down in the center, could you take a fence puller or similar anchored at top and bottom to pull it back straight, and then a new brace?
George , you don’t have any vehicle payments so you should be able to have a nice overhead garage door with remote opener . Or is that too modern for you?
@George_San_Jose1 Edit - George , if you do not have the safety cables on the tilt door springs at least do that . If one of those break it becomes a lethal projectile .
That’s a good idea. I’ll attempt to fence-pull-it back to straight without having to remove it from the hardware that holds it up. I can test it with the fence puller still installed, and if it is shaped correctly then I’ll nail in some new bracing. Seems a quick way to get some results. Thanks,
Just to follow up with this thread, I used silicone spray on the seal and it did not freeze to the floor. I’ve done it twice so far with no problems. Soon there will be no moisture for the seal to freeze to and I won’t have to worry about it. Instead of making a big project out of repairing the floor I think I can handle spraying the door once a week for one month out of the year.
Members post a topic, BestRide (our Car Talk partner) responds to help the masses. Here’s what we came up with after seeing your post.
I think my preferred method to free up the door would be the hot water trick, because it was frozen and I didn’t want to take the time to do it a slower way. But I was bad and used a quicker method. I unlatched the opener and inserted a shovel under the door and pryed it up. It broke free just as I heard the shovel start snapping. I did dodge the bullet because there was no damage to the seal or door.
Well, at least you didn’t hit it with your car like I did. I mean like a friend of mine did.
Be careful and warn others of the silicone on the floor. I’ve got a very smooth floor and a little overspray turns it into a skating rink. Don’t ask how I know.
Another idea is to have movers bring that garage down here and follow with your car. Nothing ever freezes outside here, including garage doors!