Some of the anti trip cord protector might work.
Some of the anti trip cord protector might work.
I’ve done commercial concrete work for 15 years. It’s been my experience that topping off concrete with anything, is going to crack and chip out in very short order, especially in freezing climates. This floor is pretty good except for one small 3X3 foot area where it has less than 1\4" puddle. It’s right in front of door and partially in door. If I chose to repair the concrete the most minimum fix would be to saw and chip out a 4 foot area at least 3\4 deep, then apply epoxy and finish with grout. That’s just too much of a job for what it’s worth.
Put a gc treated 2x4 across the floor. Use a drafting compass to scribe a line onto the 2x4 that follows the contour of the floor. If you adjust the gap on the compass to leave 1/4" from top of 2x4 at highest floor point, then scribe the contour. Cut the custom spacer, remove the door seal, attach the spacer and reattach the seal. Your door bottom now perfectly matches the floor.
@TwinTurbo That’s pretty darn slick. I’ll remember that one. But my problem is not that it doesn’t seal, the problem is that the seal makes contact on a wet surface, then freezes the seal to the floor. I think I’ll try the silicone spray for a while. It won’t be long until there will be no wetness. It will always be cold enough to freeze any moisture, or I will be able to shovel the frozen moisture out.
Fill up the void with expanding foam then cut it flush with the floor.Won’t be pretty but who knows,it might work!
Expanding foam isn’t strong enough to be driving a car over it.
Yeah, I’ve had this problem before as well. When I was able to make a good seal to the floor, it kept the water on one side and was less prone to freezing to the floor.
My first place, I sawed a channel as wide as a galvanized pipe I had. Maybe 1.5", was a long time ago. Chiseled that out deep enough so the pipe was just a bit above concrete surface. Then mortared it into the channel. Created a flat surface for the door and was just high enough to keep water away from door seal. Car and everything else rolled easily over it.
Have you looked at Garage Door Threshold Kits? Home Depot, Lowes and other hardware stores sell them. I don’t have your problem but I did install two of them because I had a very slight slope on the bottom and the kit takes permanetly care of it.
I have the rubber thresholds on all three of my garage doors. They are high enough to hold the water back so even if it freezes it won’t freeze the door down.
The other thing as long as we are talking car garage doors, I have been very unhappy with the lousy quality of the steel door bottom seals. Commercial are better quality but the residential just don’t seal good enough to keep water and critters out. I finally found some great bottom seals from Northshoregarage. It is heavy rubber with an internal air tube. A little pricey but I put them on all of my doors. We’ll see how it works this winter.
@tcmichnorth My concrete guys were pretty good but still one end of my floor is about 1/2 " lower and collects water. I was planning on using a little concrete surfacer on it to level it so water from the car and snow blower doesn’t collect in the corner. If not that though, what exactly kind of grout are you talking about?
It’s been many years ago so technology may have changed, but I would cut with masonry blade a saw cut around perimeter of affected area about 1" deep. Then chisel out area to 3\4" deep or whatever instructions say. Then thoroughly clean area. No dust. Then apply bonding agent. It was pink back then. Grout came in a bag about half the size of a bag f concrete. Mixed with water and filled area. It’s self leveling so you don’t trowel it. It was stronger than concrete. Tomorrow I will see if I can find the right stuff on internet and let you know.
Thanks. I think it might be better just to leave it alone. It’s been that way for 20 years.
You folks have any ideas on how to make my garage door into a rectangle again? It’s the one-piece type that swings out, rather than a sectional. Plywood on a 2x4 frame. Aged, it’s sagging at the middle point, the bottom edge is u-shaped, which is preventing the edges from meeting the floor.
It just might be loose screws on the hinges.
Heh heh. Haven’t seen one of those in a while. Pics? I guess depending there are several ways the elders used to do it. One of course is adding wood cross bracing on the inside. If you can get it back straight, then you can frame it and then X bracing-glue and screw. Another way is to use the metal rods with that screen door type of tightener. Or, get your welder out and weld a frame up with angle instead of the wood, or just start over and make a new one or buy one. I have about a 6’ gate that I just used 2x4 and X bracing with and it has stood up pretty well.
I was thinking of removing it and s quaring it up while it lay on the ground, but the problem is I’d have a tough time getting it back on the hinge & spring hardware. It’s really, really heavy. A spring broke last summer and it was a huge chore even to get the door into it’s “up” position to replace the spring. A neighbor happened by and offered to help otherwise I’d still be working that one …
Garage door springs can be very dangerous!! Stupid question maybe, but adjusting the wire ropes like adjusting a window blind might be an option, It might require a little tweaking on the rails to allow for the shift, but I am just a hillbilly looking for the easiest cheapest quickest answer for a door that does not fit flush to the floor. Just to stop patting myself on the back I take it the rubber molding is out of consideration.
Not a whole lot of information but you can Google tilt up garage doors and have a little fun but I really only saw one little picture of the inside framing and bracing. The diagonal bracing on this one is the boards themselves. Yeah if it’s too heavy, then you have to try to jack it back square somehow first.
@George_San_Jose1 Just a few more thoughts. If the door is bowed down in the center, could you take a fence puller or similar anchored at top and bottom to pull it back straight, and then a new brace?
George , you don’t have any vehicle payments so you should be able to have a nice overhead garage door with remote opener . Or is that too modern for you?
@George_San_Jose1 Edit - George , if you do not have the safety cables on the tilt door springs at least do that . If one of those break it becomes a lethal projectile .
That’s a good idea. I’ll attempt to fence-pull-it back to straight without having to remove it from the hardware that holds it up. I can test it with the fence puller still installed, and if it is shaped correctly then I’ll nail in some new bracing. Seems a quick way to get some results. Thanks,