It sounds like the switch contacts might be bouncing. All switches do that, you turn them “off” but they go into a mode briefly where they turn on and off several times before turning off finally. There’s software in the computer system to compensate for it. But the software cant’ compensate if they really bounce a lot. Only replacing the faulty switch will fix that.
The “laminated” glass you are seeing is a result of the use of sound dampening glass. Many car makers use this now to help keep wind noise down for a quieter and more luxurious ride.
As far as car door locks go…I think many people don’t know how to manually unlock their doors and panic in an emergency. In my Mazda the front door handles unlock the car automatically but, if they didn’t, you can manually move the lock located right in front of it.
That is the federal requirement for all cars sold in the U.S. Both are forms of “safety glass”, the first being mandated to prevent windshields from entering the passenger compartment if smashed, the second (“tempered” glass) designed to prevent sharp shards in the event of shattering. The first, the windshield, is also considered now to be a part of the function of the airbag, providing a surface for the airbag to compress against.
I can’t wait to tell the service adviser the next time I go in for service that I think my switches are bouncing.
Good designs employ both hardware and software debouncing of input switches 
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My 2015 Jeep Cherokee did the same thing to me once. I have keyless entry, activated by putting my hand behind one of the front door handles, which unlocks the door. I did that one time but never opened the door. After a few seconds the door relocked. I’m wondering if it’s some kind of safety feature, the thinking being if you don’t actually open the door the unlock may have been inadvertent and the door relocks to prevent unauthorized entry.
I had the same problem , I did a multi step fix but here is the solution: the reason your car behaves like a ghost in the electrical is because you have a messed up ground. open your door, the jamb which is the door part which the door itself touches, there is a door switch. keep the door open find that switch, press it in and out, you should now see the door locking and locking itself, this is not normal, the switch only should tell the system what state the door is (open/close) . the fact it is actually locking/unlocking itself when you press/depress tells you you have a messed up ground. I tried swapping the switch with another in the car and same thing, after messing with the wire jiggling it and testing did the problem go away. I previously tried replacing the door actuator, no change. I later replaced the entire door latch with new actuator AND replaced the door key cyclinder WITH the switch that goes with it. It could have been that switch on the cyclinder but I think the problem went away when I tried to solve my grounding issue. SO far I am the only one who has solved this problem so I’m letting ya’lls know, peace out
Maybe but my Acura will mysteriously lock by itself in the garage. I think its a programming thing. It maybe depends on who drove the thing last, driver 1 or 2, I don’t know, but one of us has it programmed so that it automatically locks after a minute or two. I’m just not about to go through that weird programming sequence again so if it locks, I just unlock it again.
You stated which parts you replaced but did not explain the ground location and repair. Are you willing to share that information with the OP?
He’s the only one who has solved this, and he’s not giving up proprietary info. You know, like “I jiggled a bunch of wires”. Y’alls understands, don’t ya?
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Dave: "Hello, HAL. Do you read me, HAL?"
HAL: "Affirmative, Dave. I read you."
Dave: "Open the pod bay doors, HAL."
HAL: “I’m sorry, Dave. I’m afraid I can’t do that.”
CSA 
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Reminds me of the case a few years ago where the guy got locked in a BMW or something by his friends and couldn’t get out. Something to do with the software or something. My wife actually claimed the Acura did the same thing to her once but I have been unable to duplicate the problem. I always try it with the window open.
My Insight has done this also…I’m convinced it’s just me hitting the lock button on the fob in my pocket.
Lol no it’s no proprietary information. I thought I explained it, but here is more details. my symptoms were when I tried to open the door from the inside or outside the door would lock instantly and I was trapped inside the car or the door opened halfway and the latch kept the door locked. It was not something that would happen every time, it was random. another person on here has said the same thing his symptoms are random. I have removed the door master door control many times thinking it was the actuator because everyone says this is it, it’s not people are retarded. After replacing actuator symptoms did not go away. The reason I also replaced the door latch is because I had a second problem, door would not open or close as easily as it did before, required more force, replacing door latch solved this 100%. ignore the door latch., not related. I also replaced the door cylinder and cylinder switch. I do not think it’s the master door control because I have disconnected it multiple times and it was not a loose connection also I have not replaced the door master control and problem is 100% solved. I could be wrong, the door control may have fixed itself so it cannot be entirely ruled out, however the big clue is open your door. on the opposite side of your plastic door latch (trust me it’s not metal) is a horsehoe hook, that’s what the latch grabs on to. above that is your door jamb switch, pressing onto it caused the car to unlock, lock, unlock, every time I pressed it. that’s the clue. this is not normal. does same thing if I just closed the door. I think engine needs to be running or at least key in a certain position (pos II?). it is not the door jamb switch itself because I’ve remove the other jamb switches and tested it on the driver’s door and it still does it. I am 70% sure it is the wire feeding to the door jamb switch because if you disconnect the switch problem goes away, however you now do not get a courtesy light or map light and dome light come on when you open the door, it sucks at night. my hypothesis is there is either a break in the wire or there is a part scraped off and it is rubbing against the chassis. the door jamb switch only has 1 black wire going to it. it gets it’s negetive from the screw that holds the switch to the jamb. it gets it’s negetive directly from the chassis. the battery is grouded to the chassis. you can either wiggle that wire and hope you get lucky like me or you will have to trace that wire to who knows where. it might not even be accesible at all. 70% it’s your grounding issue, 30% it could be the master door control although for me I’m still using the original master control so I doubt it is that since my problems have never come back. you have to ask yourself why does the locks start acting weird EVERY time you press the door jamb switch (while key in pos II or engine running, can’t remember position), that’s your clue, but it’s not the actual switch
also to prevent you from being locked out of your car while you do the permanent fix, disconnect the door jamb switch. you will not have any lights come on when you open the door but it’s better than being locked out. I was rolling the windows down every time I was around the car, that gets old fast
I looked into this more and I was wrong. there is a micro switch inside the door latch that tells when the door is closed/open. it is failing. replace latch or micro switch , here is the how to: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/222287-how-to-octavia-1-replacing-door-latch-microswitch/ replace the latch or microswitch
This is an update: 1 year later and the intermittent locking/ unlocking door locks that operate without the user pushing any buttons issue is fixed. to summarize the fix
- I first replaced the door actuator with a new oem part, no fix
- noticed pushing the door switch at the door jamb caused the door locks to lock, unlock, then lock quickly in sucession
- noticed door had to be slammed hard to close otherwise partially opened. this was because the actual door latch on the door (what the door actuator is connected to) was failing.
- replaced door lock cylinder and cylinder switch (do not think this was related)
5)replaced door latch, which came with a new actuator, both oem, both parts sold as a combo unit - pushed wire that connected to door switch back in a bit in case it was a grounding issue
conclusion, I did replace most of the electronics that controlled the locking mechanism, one of them was the answer. my intuition tells me it was a failing microswitch. since I did replace the actuator first and nothing changed it must have been the door latch (which was welded with rust to the door, had to drill out the screw to free the latch) . what puzzles me is there is no electronics that I could see on the latch itself, the only electronics I saw was the actuator that connected to it, which was already ruled out unless the new part I replaced somehow was also bad. anyways just letting people know that 1) I wasn’t crazy and 2) replace everything I did and you eventually will fix it. if you don’t believe me come pay and I can fix your car, this is a problem that Honda themselves cannot fix. I now realize dealer mechanics are only allowed whatever is in their procures book, they aren’t allowed to think for themselves
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