Current 'good experience' Remote Keyless Entry Fob' web source?

chevrolet
suburban

#1

The company that I had successfully purchased many remotes from over the years is no longer ok. Per my last experience it was clear they had sold the business to another party and that party totally screwed up a good thing. As a result, I deleted their Contact information in Outlook and don’t even remember their name–although I would likely recognize it.

I’ve come across a site that does appear to be reasonable and responsive ('99 Suburban $39.99 + $2 shipping).

Anyone have a current killer company?

(Edit) Uh Oh. I just downloaded the programming instructions. Whereas my prior replacement Fobs simply required following an ignition/hold down lock/etc sequence, these instructions indicate a necessity to mess with OBDII(?) jumper wires which for me seems to be totally above my pay grade!

  1. Locate the Data Link Port. It is located under dash drivers side. Be sure you know
    which pins are 8 and 4.

(Note port is wider at top) Your OBDII port will not
have numbers, use this diagram for reference.

They show an image of the the port with numbers 1-8 top and 9-16 below

  1.  Make sure there are metal contact pins in terminals 8 and 4. Connect 8 to 4 with a 
     suitable jumper wire (leave the jumper wire connected throughout the programming 
     procedure). Make sure you know which terminals are 8 and 4. The vehicle will respond 
     by locking and unlocking the doors to signify entering of programming mode. 
    
  2.  Press and hold both the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons together on the first transmitter to 
    be programmed. After about 15 seconds, the vehicle will respond by locking and 
    unlocking the doors. Release the buttons on the transmitter.
    
  3.  Within one minute, repeat the previous step on the remaining transmitters to be
    programmed.
    
  4. Remove jumper wire applied to the OBDII Port.

Mark


#2

@cdaquila -Me thinks SPAM


#3

Methinks the same.


#4

Edit. I removed the spam flags. This truly isn’t spam, when before I was equivocal and only partly informed. Apologies to markg2.


#5

Would someone explain why my asking a seemingly, simple and straightforward question resulted in two unclear and unclever responses plus a third oblique post referencing the apparent wise thinking here that I was/am or might be, of all possible idiotic attributes, a ‘spammer’?


#6

The reference to a company website as a solution to problems when attacked to a basically unintelligible post usually creates the suspicion that the post objective is to promote the linked company. That’s spam.

So, what exactly is the problem you’re trying to solve? This is your chance to redeem yourself and to get help. If you direct us to a company website, however, I too will trip the “spam” alarm.


#7

Some of us recognize you as a regular here but there are others who search for spam and spelling errors.

I have not purchased aftermarket sourced RKE remotes, I get them from the dealers parts counter for my customers. I have seen that company’s advertisements before, there are many companies on EBAY that sell RKE remotes for half that amount.


#8

I’ve never had to replace one. Two have always been plenty. You just take care not to lose them. Not sure why you have had to buy so many. Now garage door remotes I’ve had to buy

At any rate the instructions seem fairly straight forward if that’s all it takes. Can’t say anything about the price but seems to me they are upwards of $100 or more at the dealer which may include the programming. So the most you’ll be out is $40 if it doesn’t work. Just make sure you get the right pins. I do believe they are numbered though if you take a look with a strong light and a magnifying glass.


#9

I Didn’t Get To See Which Site Was Cited, But I Ordered From A Company (mentioned below) That Delivered Phone Help, Programming Instructions (Didn’t Need Them As It’s In Car’s My Owner’s Manual), Prompt Service, And OEM Remotes, As Promised.

The price listed for your remote is much higher (like more than double) than what you are indicating, but check out keylessride.com if you’d like.
CSA


#10

Thanks–

You’re correct, keylessride is almost double. ekeylessremote was the one I had used before they sold–among other things, even though I’m connecting https://, 2 browsers auto disconnect (baring user exception) due to an ‘unsecured connection’.

One of the soldered elements of my wife’s existing remote literally had ‘fallen off’ the circuit board. Out of curiosity, you have any idea why the initial company I referenced required jumping two pins (which they said will lock/unlock the doors) and then proceeding with the instructions?


#11

markg2
" One of the soldered elements of my wife’s existing remote literally had ‘fallen off’ the circuit board."

I’ve had the piece (that holds the battery and is a battery terminal), which is soldered to the circuit board, fall off. It was fairly easy to re-solder it. No problems after that. It seems it’s a weak spot in these remote transmitters. Most have cracked solder, once a battery is replaced.
CSA


#12

I received the remote, inserted the under dash jumper wire as instructed, door locks responded by locking/unlocking–I was in programming mode. I held down the remote’s lock/unlock buttons as directed for 30-45 seconds vs 15 w/no corresponding response from the car. I replaced the battery that shipped w/a new Energizer–no difference. I advised the company and was sent a replacement remote–same problem.

This is a '99 Suburban. Is it at all likely that the auto’s internal electronics that handle this kind of thing have just gone kaput?

Mark


#13

I have had to re-solder hundreds of remotes. ALL of those were GM vehicle’s OE remotes.
and on every single one of those, the little three fingered contact that was soldered on the cicuit board, under which you slide the battery, has come off completely.
My used car department brings me all the battery replcements, and , if it’s a GM I instantly tell them it needs more than just a battery and I’m always right . . the tabs are off.


#14

Unfortunately the circuit board is tight. Does the battery ‘+’ side face up or down?


#15

@ken green
"I have had to re-solder hundreds of remotes. ALL of those were GM vehicle’s OE remotes.
and on every single one of those, the little three fingered contact that was soldered on the cicuit board, under which you slide the battery, has come off completely."

Been there, done that, several times. Poor design… Sometimes the remote still works, but range becomes limited until re-soldering. Takes less than a minute.
CSA