I realize this topic has arisen a few times as I did the search, but there doesn’t seem to be an agreement on a cure aside from going to the dealer.
I locked the Silhouette with the key fob and after doing some business, returned and unlocked the van with the keyfob.
I get home, get out, hit the remote LOCK and there is no (ziltch) action from the remote.
I used the wifes’ key fob and same thing, no action at all.
I checked the fuse (BCM), of course its fine.
I reprogrammed the remote door lock/unlock mode according to the owners manual but still no luck.
Using the ignition key manually in all doors works as it should, locks and unlocks all doors and rear hatch.
From the day I bought this 2000 Olds van (used 2003)I have never had any problems with either remotes.
Anyone with fresh ideas on how to fix this?
Never ran into this problem, however this is what I would do:
First, will the remote work while away from home? Then this could be a radio-interference issue, otherwise,
- Determine all unique environmental considerations for when it does/doesnt work,
- Consider that there is more than one cause of the problem (two bad remotes?)
- Jiggle all wires leading to the various lock mechanisms and control modules, retry,
- Start vehicle and retry (low wattage problem?)
- Buy a used module from a salvage yard, or better yet, see if the dealer parts dept will let you return a new control module provided you dont make any wiring changes. Installing a new control module will eliminate this possibility.
- Attach a volt meter to the two doorlock leads. If you DO see a jump in power after pressing the remote, then you know its a doorlock problem and not the entry system.
Just continue on a process of elimination and you will find the problem. I personally have found replacing parts one by one was still cheaper than paying hours of labor at the dealer. Good luck.
Maybe you need batteries in the key fob.
Thank you ChevyC60.
I’ve tried a couple of the suggestions you’ve made to no avail.
No, the remotes will not work anywhere.
Concerning two bad remotes. Both remotes have been totally trouble free ever since I bought the 2000 van (used) in 2003.
At first I suspected a dead battery in mine as it is used more often, so I tried the wifes and found hers didn’t activate anything either.
What are the odds both batteries failing at the same time?
The power door locks all work when I turn the key in the door key cylinder.
I haven’t been able to locate the remote control module in the van though, so that’s still an outstanding issue. Perhaps the main issue?
I tried reprogramming the remotes, but I think it’s because I don’t have any remote connection to the module in the van that I’m unable to reprogram.
I HAVE to have one remote working in order to program the second one. At the present time there are none working.
We’ve just temporarily succumbed to this nuisance and stick the key in the door to lock and unlock.
I still want to fix the remotes though I am certainly not enthused about going to the dealer to reprogram/fix them.
Yeh, I know what you mean by process of elimination. Been there done that, too often.
Hi jt,
You may be right, but like I mentioned to ChevyC60, both remote keyfobs died at the same time.
They are about 7 to 8 years old. It’s a cheap fix if it works, so why not try it?
Old alright but guess what?
One (mine) was almost dead and the wifes was still fairly good. Not bad when you consider the batteries are supposed to last about 2 years.
Anyway, I installed the new batteries and tried to synchronize the keyfob.
No luck, so it’s off to my independent shop/tech on Wednesday.
Following up…
Turned out the pin/connectors in the wiring to module were slightly dirty.
My tech had to remove the top of the dash to get at it.
Once these were cleaned and reattached he re-programmed the code in and now I’m $50 poorer but a happy camper. (Both remotes reprogrammed)
Apparently, moisture moved during recirculation and defrosting creates this problem with the connections.
The front (next to the windshield) section (one of two) contains the key-less entry module, the theft-deterrent warning light and the automatic light sensitivity sensor.
If you do check back here, I suggest applying DIALECTIC GREASE to the pin connectors. This will ensure moisture and oxidation of the pin contacts doesnt penetrate the connections and further ensures better conductivity in areas susceptible to moisture.
(But see, I was partly right. I did first suggest checking connections. )
Oy-vay. I didn’t think anyone posted after I said I got it fixed.
Anyway, no more problems and after I read what you said lastly about the dielectric grease, I called my tech and he said he had used it when he put the pins together, so that’s good.
I trust this tech as I have had him work on my vehicles (when needed) for 16 years now.
Yep CC60, you were partly correct, I just needed the location. Anyway, thanks for the input all.