Clutch problem?

hyundai
elantra

#1

So I have a 2005 hyundai elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm’s going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I’m going up any sort of hill or trying accelerate faster than normal. When going up a hill the rpm’s will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems slugish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm’s are high but I’m not going fast enough yet for the next gear.

Wondering if anyone knows if this sounds like it would be some sort of problem related with the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or somthing?

If anyone can give me some advice it would be appreciated.
Thank you.


#2

The clutch is slipping, and that is a sign of a worn out clutch. I doubt the bad slave cylinder did this. Clutches, like brakes, are a wear item that will need to be changed from time to time.


#3

Ya that is kind of what I figured, I was just hoping for possibly a cheaper fix than a new cluth. Thanks


#4

I expect there was probably no problem in the slave cylinder. Was the slave cylinder actually leaking? Visible leaks? If not, the low fluid was probably caused by the clutch disc being worn out. As it wears, the extra slack taken up drops the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. This is a good thing, as monitoring this level gives an indication of how much clutch disc is left.

There is some chance that there was a problem in the slave – esp if there was visible leaks – and that after replacement it hasn’t been bled correctly.

You didn’t say how many miles, but clutches can wear out as early as 60K depending on the driver’s habits. So it wouldn’t be that unusual for yours – on a 2005 – to be at the end of its life and needing replacement. Double check the bleeding. And check the linkages. If everything seems ok with those, probably time to start shopping for a clutch replacement job.


#5

The clutch in my 89 Mustang GT went at 80k, but not due to abuse, throwout bearing making a noise. When we pulled the tranny the clutch disc looked like it still had more than 50 % of wear left.

Do not try and save a few $$$ on this…replace everything new. To get the most mileage out of a clutch, use the minimum rpm to get the car rolling to avoid excessive slipping, like reving it to 3000 rpm and then feathering the clutch, a NO NO. Avoid excessive down shifting use the brakes unless you need the engine to help to prevent overheating the brakes… Shift into the next gear at the optimum rpm comfortable for the next gear , and never drive using your clutch pedal as a foot rest. What wears a disc out is slipping…If you" could " drive it in top gear from FL to WA and never shifted no wear…Good Luck !

Its a lot cheaper replacing a clutch then an automatic.


#6

I have 140K miles on it. The slave cylinder did have visible leaks around the boot on the shaft of it. I can double check the bleeding of that, its easy enough. We’ll see if that does anything.


#7

A faulty or leaking slave cylinder would most likely result in the clutch not disengaging completely, so you would have hard shifting and grinding getting into first or reverse. What you describe is pretty classic worn out clutch slipping, and at 140K, I’d say you are about to get a new clutch done. If not today, soon enough that there’s no point in any more research. Make sure you do the throw out bearing at the same time, and maybe the rear main seal? You will be doing or paying for a lot of labor to get the transmission out and back in, so anything that can be reached while it’s out should be replaced.


#8

A slave cylinder can leak a little and still work ok; not causing the worn clutch to slip.
Think holistically. Change the master cylinder too when the clutch is replaced.


#9

Well I went to re-bleed the slave cylinder again and there was air in it. There are no visible leaks on the slave cylinder or on any of the hoses or metal lines. So I got all the air out and took it for a drive, the car seemed to have a little more of the power up hills that it was missing. But then it seemed like it was losing it again. So I checked the bleeding of the cylinder again and it has more air.

Is it possible that the master cylinder is leaking too and letteing air in the system? Or why would air keep getting back in?


#10

Since the master is located above the slave (doesn’t that sound politically incorrect?) air won’t normally go from the master to the slave.
However, worn slave could draw in air when you release the pedal.
Anyway, this problem wouldn’t cause the clutch to slip.
Again, thinking holistically, I think you need a new clutch and master & slave cylinders.


#11

So I do need a new clutch. I do mostly driving in town or 55 mph roads and some freeway. Is there any specific brand of clutch you would recomend or to stay away from?


#12

The factory one you have lasted 140,000 miles. That’s not bad. Other brands, I don’t know.


#13

More important than the brand is the installation. The flywheel must be resurfaced or, if heavily scored, replaced. The flywheel is expensive (usually several hundred dollars) but can be reused if you have not driven the car with a worn clutch for too long.The clutch disc must be properly aligned and it is a good idea to replace the throw-out bearing to prevent another expensive failure in the near future. If properly installed most brands of clutch will give you good service life, especially if you don’t drive aggressively.


#14

My 2001 Honda Insight had a clutch replacement at 86,000 in 20012. Now, 1.5 yrs later at 107,000 it is out again. When I called the Honda dealer with this information, he said he would research it and call back.
I got a message later from him saying that It might be not the gearshift but the gearshift hydraulics, and to call him back with more information.
I’ve had problems with this dealer before and am feeling like I’m going to get the runaround and charged $1,000 again.
How can I defend myself? Thanks. Cecilia


#15

I have replaced a few clutches and have never resurfaced a flywheel. The Elantra probably has a dual mass flywheel and those are more than a couple hundred dollars.

However, do replace the throwout bearing, pilot bearing and the pressure plate as well as the clutch plate.


#16

cecilla, you need to start a new post, not hook onto someone elses. It makes it difficult to keep track of who is answering who when there are multiple questions going on. Look at the top right hand corner of this page and you will see a red box with the words “New discussion”, click on that box and start your own thread. I will have an answer for you when you do that.


#17

as has been said here, the clutch cylinders would not cause the problem you are having.