My 1999 integra with under 150k started stalling while mostly at stop sign or cruising towards one and won’t start for ten minutes or so. One time when it happened, I was on 35mph road but I do not remember if I released the accelerator momentarily. Once it stalled right after starting. Mostly stalls within 4 miles of starting the car. Stalling does not reset the clock or car radio.
Only one time, it sputtered twice before stalling at the traffic lights - I was using the original Main relay that was re-soldered. Otherwise, never sputtered.
Car always starts on cold. And there is no CEL.
Nearly 6 months ago (at a shop):
compression and Fuel pressure were good
Reman injectors, new Fuel filter, new Sparks were installed
after these, it smokes like what it was 10yrs ago
Rotor/Cap are OEM with under 50k and looks good
I tried with new Main Relay (Fuel pump + injector) but issue still present When it stalled I swapped with a new Main Relay but car did not start. It takes about 10mins to start again. During my limited testing, it had not stalled on this new aftermarket Main relay,
Inside Dizzy, I do not see any red dust - it looks clean - still tried a different coil - no difference
When I first installed the Main Relay, it ran without stalling for 7mile test drive. I had also disconnected the battery while doing this install. ECM reset was the cause for no stall? Most people fixed this issue with a new Main Relay but it didn’t work for me. Some have replaced Dizzy. Rarely fuel pump. IACV?
I also gently moved the key while running and the car did not stall. I was looking for loose wiring. It has original starter, dizzy and alternator. When running battery was showing over 14v and when turned off, its over 12v. I have a new aftermarket dizzy if I were to swap it and test.
This acts like a possible bad cranskshaft position sensor (cps). Works when cold, dies when hot, restarts cold and sets no codes.
When it dies, try starting it with starter fluid. If it runs, it is not the cps, it is a fuel problem. If it doesn’t, and you check for spark and there is none, suspect the cps.
Crankshaft position sensor could very well be it, but there may be more than one heat-sensitive component in the ignition system. As I recall there is something in the distributor, too, on my 1999 Honda. Also something that detects fluctuations in the crankshaft rotation speed.
When this happens try taking off the gas cap, see if there’s a vacuum. If there is, try starting. If it starts, there’s something wrong with the fuel vent system.
Thank you all and will work on those recommendations.
BTW, nearly 14months ago, as a result of dirty IACV, my AC clutch disengages at idle speed when the car is warm. AC clutch back and forth tries to engage but unsuccessfully resulting in a tik, tik sound (at idle and the car is warm - RPM drops below 600). After cleaning the IACV, the issue was gone completely - I have not had this issue ever. I also wondered if IACV is not providing enough air at idle making the car to stall?
One time, right before throwing P0505, the car once lacked power and eventually stalled - no CEL. I re-started and got home and continue to use. Later on it triggered P0505.
IACV controls air depending on the coolant temp.
When I put the new aftermarket Main relay (with battery disconnection), car was so quiet (warmed up) that I got curious and looked at the RPM - it was around 700 (within specs).
Check to see if there is spark immediately after it stops running. It could be a weak igniter. Otherwise use a scan tool to see what’s going on when it stops running.
Running out of gas or suddenly disconnecting the spark plugs or similar incident won’t trigger the check engine light.
You could (not drive it) or just put the cap back on. Once you’ve relieved the vacuum the fuel pump can then work for another few miles (if that’s the problem).
For my car: > First, lets talk about the sensors- there are 3:
*> * > TDC: Top dead center > CYP: Cylinder position > CKP: Crankshaft position
> Using these 3 sensors, the ECU can determine very important things: Which cylinder should be firing, when that cylinder is at TDC, and what position or angle the crankshaft is. The B-series distributor uses “hall effect” sensors to determine the position of the engines various components. I’m not exactly sure how they work, but I think the basic idea is when something breaks a magnetic field, it causes voltage to drop. I’m no EE, but here’s a better explanation.
Whoever wrote this just listed sensors measuring the same thing. FI cars need a cam sensor and a crank sensor at the least. Some have 2 cam sensors with variable cam timing. ECUs can defect a bad cam sensor but may not detecta bad crank sensor.
Your original post omitted the year of the car so I could not look to see what you had.
The symptoms sound like an ignition system problem. Crank sensor, ignition coil, etc. Could be a fuel problem too. I had a VW Rabbit years ago that would just stop running for no reason. Di agnostic showed no fuel from the fuel pump. Turned out to be a defective fuel pump relay. That same Rabbit also developed a problem where it would stop running if I ran over a puddle of water in the road. That was caused by a tiny crack in the ignition coil.
