Here is when it stalled - I was puzzled that LTFT remained flat during the first 3.5miles, perhaps it was not on closed loop - but next diagram LTFT is not flat anymore and I also heard the fan coming on:
The fuel trim’s seem to be hovering around +10%. That seems a little unusual, but I wouldn’t expect whatever that issue is, to cause a stall. It’s definitively a puzzle at this point. Have you checked for a consistent bluish-white spark at a spark plug during cranking? Is the engine compression ok?
LTFT was like that since April. Shop did not see a vacuum leak. I am yet to find a good m/c with a smoke machine.
Compression was good back in April. No recent test.
I could not look for Spark as I did not have someone to crank when I am stalled on the road.
I could check for carbon in the throttle, swap the Dizzy and MAP sensor and check for spark when stalled.
Its weird - it starts right about 10mins later - while waiting, it started once but stalled right away - so waited a bit longer.
The MAP sensor readings look correct based on your postings above, presuming the engine was turned off. Atmospheric pressure is about 15 psi, which is what you are getting.
One problem w/ mechanics … if you ask them for a “rough estimate” they might beat you up … lol … sorry, just a little humor, couldn’t resist 
Credit to this joke goes to the actor who played Gianni on Everybody Loves Raymond.
I found this…
- Anonymous Dec 01, 2008
I have the same problem, my 1999 Acura tl recently started cutting off itself. It will sometimes cut off while driving down the road. While googling, I found the following recall for 1999 Acura. I’m going to the dealer to have it check.
1999 ACURA TL Recall ID from NHTSA: 02V120000
Auto Recall Date:
MAY 16, 2002
Vehicle Component:
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Model Affected
TL
Estimated Vehicles Affected:
1000000 Recall Details
Auto Recall Date: MAY 16, 2002
Vehicle Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Estimated Vehicles Affected: 1000000
Model Affected1999 ACURA TL
1999 Acura TL Defect Summary:ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.
Defect Consequence:WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy:DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN JUNE 14, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
Estimated Vehicles Affected: 1000000
Notes: AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO.
2 Answers
Craig Beske
- Contributor
- 1 Answer
The problem is the ignition wiring harness, as described in the May 2002 Recall 02V120000. I tried to get Acura to replace it a second time (first time they replaced it was at 75K miles) with no success. Car started stalling/restarting again at 200K miles. I bought the part mentioned in the recall (~$70) and installed it myself - have not had a reoccurrence since.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
Thanks @weekend-warrior
If it is ign, will the clock reset?
Mine is not TL. The recall appears not relevant.
I’m not going to go back over all the posts but do you hear the fuel pump running when you try to start it and sitting there? When my GM was stalling at 7 miles, I taped a fuel pressure tester to the windshield and a test light on the test terminal to see if I lost pressure when it stalled. Might also be able to hook a spark tester too so try and split the problem-fuel or spark. Of course I never found the problem and junked the car.
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Looking at long term fuel trim is of no use, you should monitor crankshaft and camshaft speed, engine RPM. If the ignition drops off, the effect will be immediate, if the fuel pressure drops, the effect will be a drop in power during a 5 second period.
Seems odd that the coolant temperature is 73 degrees after 3 1/2 miles of travel but this won’t stall the engine. Could be something to investigate.
Sorry - its at cold start - I made a correction on my post. Before the 3.5mile drive.
My OBDII does not provide those data.
Actually Absol Throttle pons (blue line) dropped to the idle position of 9.8% - I thought that I was accelerating after making the turn!
This coincides with my observation that stall usually happens at stop signs. In this case, I just finished a turn and thought that I was accelerating. Perhaps I sensed loss of power that I was moving the car to the side.
Are you able to use the scan tool while it stops running? The engine RPM and manifold pressure should still be reported after it stops running. We just want to make sure the ECU is working after it stalls.
I still think a problem with the ignition is likely.
I should be able to - @George_San_Jose1 correctly stated atmospheric pressure is 14.696psi - so before starting the car and after stalling, it returned to about 15psi. So MAP is working fine. RPM is almost zero unless the car is rolling to a stop…
I sharked the key a lot yesterday - no stall. Also called the dealer and they said there is no recall on my car.
I am focusing on the igniter. I could not remove it last time as it was too tight. Remember igniter has a heatsink!
The last time, the bottom 8mm bolt broke as I was tightening despite my muscles are weak. This is Honda OEM part. Will Honda give me another part!
The top 12mm bolt can only be removed with a wrench - it was tight. My breaker bar internal diameter is smaller than the wrench! Its been there for 20yrs. I sprayed wd-40 last week. Lets see how it goes today.
I have an aftermarket Dizzy as well a used OEM igniter.
WD 40 is the wrong product for penetrating rust.
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Oh, I have the PB penetrating oil that I bought for radiator replacement - I do not use it a lot that I forget about it. I need to locate it too.
Anyway I managed to loosen it already - I actually changed the O-ring six months ago, yet it was tight somehow.
Have you checked for no spark during one of the times that it stalls? Even if there is spark it could still be weak. It should be a whitish blue and bright, but sometimes you can’t tell if the spark is strong visually.