My dad just replaced the battery and it’s still not working and keeps telling me I have no gas which is funny because my car has gas and it’s not fully on e so not sure why he was saying that
After you put the battery in (correctly), you go out to the car and alternate pressing the open close buttons 5 times quickly to sync it up to the vehicle. The procedure is in your owners manual.
I believe your owners manual will show the correct orientation of the battery.
OP, look at the battery carefully. Might be helpful to use a magnifying glass. Those button-cell type batteries usually aren’t symmetrical up vs down. Done partly to make it difficult to install backwards, reverse polarity, which could ruin the fob. Besides the + mark, the side of the battery is also part of either the top or bottom . The fob will have two connection points. Look carefully, you should be able to see them. Make sure they connect to different parts of the battery, not both the same side.
Just out of curiosity, is this one of those that you insert the fob into a slot to start it? I had an 08 and a 12 and one of them was like that. Just don’t remember which anymore. Now it’s proximity push button. The key detaches from the fob before you can open it up. Is it the fob or the key that is chipped. Maybe I’ll just try it. Maybe not. Why ask for trouble? I’ll check the manual.
There is no fob. The RKE transmitter is located in the key handle with the immobilizer transponder. The transponder does not rely on the RKE battery however it might be possible for the transmitter to interfere with the immobilizer signal if something in the RKE transmitter were jammed.
Yes. You have to remove the tiny screw because it screws into threads in the metal key. My Subaru is the same as this Honda one and I did not remove the metal key. I suspect that it also serves as the antenna but I don’t know that. If it was broken off during one of the battery chance attempts, then that could be why it is not working.
I’m gonna give it a try in the morning. It is possible the battery is the wrong way. I actually have to go buy me a screw driver cause I didn’t have one and am not trying to strip the screw, also I was doing some packing last week so I have to find my Manuel which I think it’s actually in my car. I appreciate the help and I will confirm tomorrow if it was the battery the wrong way or not
Yeah I figured it out. You tube. The removable key is the valet key but also unlocks the door. You can lock the glove box with it for a valet. Never use them. If the fob is dead, you put the end against the start button and it will read the chip in the fob and can start the car.
A few years ago my wife was locked out from a failing fob battery. It either started working again or she figured it out. So I just change them once a year.
This is a 2004 Honda with a conventional key, not a proximity key.
Comment directed toward Keith.
Confused. Could you please clarify? This is how Google define a key fob:
A key fob is the small handheld remote control device that controls a remote keyless entry system . When you press the button on your keys and hear the comforting chirp of your car’s unlocking mechanism, you can thank the humble but mighty key fob.
So i guess the immobilizer fell out
Did you find it and place it back inside the key?
According to Nevada, the fob is part of the key. I may have had such a device but don’t recall. I think at this point, I would tow it to the dealer and have two new keys and fobs programmed and pay the freight. Second job or first job to compensate for the cost. We are only making matters worse. They should be able to cut the key portion so it still works on the physical locks. There comes a time when it is time.
@bing I know how it works, it is the same FOB that my 2014 Subaru Legacy uses, the only difference is the logo on the outside. It is NOT a valet key, the valet key looks just like it but is grey, does not need a battery and will not work on the trunk or glovebox.
The FOB on this model, as far as I know is only for vehicle door locks. It may or may not use something that affects the ignition but since the valet key will start the car, I suspect not, unless the valet key has a resistor or RFID tag that allows it to work.
There is no push to start, you have to insert the key into the ignition.
BTW, I suspect that the OP has two issues and replacing the battery in the FOB correctly and following the instructions to resync will only allow him to open the other doors in the vehicle so he doesn’t have to go through the trunk. Either the lock cylinder or the linkage in the door is causing the key to not work mechanically and since the inside button isn’t working, I’m leaning toward a linkage problem and not the lock cylinder itself.
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Yes thankfully and that’s all it needed when it fell out I just a piece of the plastic chipped off but thankfully my mechanic came over and knew right away once he opened it. I’m back to driving
I dk why but my mechanic said its probably the lock actuator. maybe I didn’t explain it right or maybe he is right. But he said something about if I hear the sound like it’s clicking or whatever when I hit the lock/unlock from the inside then it’s the lock actuator.
As you can probably tell, I know next to nothing about key fobs for cars. I have a credit card however that has something (silicon chip?) in it, which makes it possible for me tap the credit card on the reader at the post office to buy stamps. Is that what a key-fob is? My credit card has no battery as far as I know, so it doesn’t transmit any signals itself.
I’ve never had any electronics training except on teletypes and they didn’t have chips or proximetry readers.
All I know is what the manual said with a dead fob, put it up to the start button and it can read the code in the fob. I usually don’t use the tap function since I end up doing it several times and fear I’m getting charge twice. Wondering though if those code scammers can’t read the card that way so maybe safer at strange gas stations.
Honda’s have a history of actuator problems. I had to have the drivers door actuator on my 97 Accord replaced, but not for your reason.
My way of thinking is that if you can hear a sound, it’s the linkage. Since the key also doesn’t work, it could also be the linkage and not the lock cylinder as we have been guessing.
You clearly have two faults here, the actuator not working and the key not working. Could they have both failed a the same time? Yes, but there is a common thing between them and that is the linkage.
Door panels are not that hard to remove, watch a couple of Youtube videos, get a panel tool and go for it. Also get a new battery for the FOB, installed correctly and open the owners manual to find the instructions for syncing it to the vehicle. That wont fix the problem but it seems to be one of the thing you will need to do eventually.