That might be a fair price for where ever you are . Get a second opinion . But the normal reply here is to avoid chain type shops .
Thank you. Can I know how would I go about getting multiple quotes? All mechanics would like to see the car to give a quote. I feel hesitated to leave them after they spent time in looking the car and giving a quote.
Why are you replacing 6 yr old calipers?
Go here, see if your estimate is in the right range.
Enter your info here,
and you’ll get some idea about the quote.
Tester
The mechanic said they are damaged and need to be replaced. He showed me what’s the problem but I don’t know much about it
Count me a skeptic. What problems with brakes were you experiencing? Does the parking brake work and release?
Rear brakes don’t do much work and if there’s a problem it’s often just a parking brake mechanism that needs to be freed up.
What kind of shop is this ? Just call an independent brake shop and ask what their estimate policy is ?
No brake inspections performed over the phone, that is my policy.
But you would quote your prices for replacing the same parts, right? With the caveat that you’d have to inspect the car yourself to know if more or less needed to be done.
is that 9 hours for the whole job? or 3 hours for the whole job?
Parts don’t seem outrageously priced, depending on quality. But I can’t tell you if you need them or not.
It is 3 hours labor . The invoice is a little strange as that column is quantity/hours .
Thank you, I see what is going on now.
It’s confusing the way the invoice is arranged, but the prices seem reasonable. $64 for a rotor, very good. $48 for a set of brake pads. Again, very good. $125 for a caliper, very good. $40 for the fluid to replace the brake fluid seems a little high, but that’s just quibbling given the other very reasonable parts prices. And 3 hours labor to do the job, again very reasonable imo.
I pretty much agree. I think the main thing I’d want to know is do the calipers even need replacing? That’s a big chunk of the bill and seems kind of unlikely to be needed on a 2016 to me, but stranger things have happened. I think I’d want a second opinion just for that reason.
The OP says in his other thread that the work on this vehicle has been done . I guess he just wanted to know if he paid too much. But it seems he is using the same shop for his other vehicle which I wonder if it really needs all the work the shop wants to do.
That ticket comes across as a bit odd to me and needs a lot of clarifying.
As read, the ticket could mean 9 hours labor or 3 hours. First is dicey at best; second would be very fair.
If it means 9 hours then it sounds like labor overlap is not being considered.
I think the prices are fair if all the work was done. I also question the need for new calipers. The only way they would get damaged would be if the vehicle was in a major wreck.
The red flag about the calipers for me is that they didn’t replace the flex lines. Anything that could damage that big chunk of cast iron would certainly damage the flex lines.
Damage to calipers is usually a matter of time and exposure to the elements: rust forms on the walls of the bores, so the pistons don’t retract as they should. Rust also forms along the caliper slides, so there’s uneven pressure on the sides of the disc. This all adds up to a dragging brake, heating up one side of the disc more than the other, causing it to warp… you get the picture.