Abs for toyota fj

My FJ needs a new ABS. Does anyone have experience with a used abs replacement for a 2007 FJ Crusier?

No, and it’s probably illegal to install used brake parts. If you want to keep drivng this vehicle, have it properly repaired by a competent shop.

You may live in an area without mandatory inspection, and in that case I would have the whole system disconnected by a competent mechanic. Midas is not the place to go for this. Most of us have driven most of our adult lived without ABS.

There is no such thing as an “ABS”.
ABS is a complete system, that includes wheel speed sensor components at each wheel, an ABS modulator that pulsates the hydraulic pressure to each individual wheel as directed by a microprocessor based on its inputs from the wheel speed sensors, and the microprocessor itself.

What exactly is wrong with your ABS system? What’s it doing (or not doing)?
What are the failure codes?

ABS is the entire system. An ABS failure could just be a wheel sensor or faulty connection. What part are you being told you need.

ABS problems are typically a broken sensor, dirty sensor, broken sensor cable, or dirty sensor cable connectors. Are your sensors part of the wheel hub or do they bolt on?

I don’t know. How can I find out if it’s a sensor problem or the modulator itself.

The system must be diagnosed. Is the brake pedal hard or is the ABS warning light on?

I don’t recall replacing any Toyota/Lexus wheel speed sensors (there is no moisture when I am) but I have replaced a couple of dozen hydraulic brake actuators. They do fail.

The ABS system is electronically controlled. The control module has it’s own set of diagnostic codes that should help you diagnose the system. The system also has sensors, a pump, and electronic solenoid valves. A problem with any one of these detected by the control module will shut down the ABS system as a fail-safe. A code will be set, and the system will remain off until the fault is fixed.

To find out “if it’s a sensor or the modulator itself”, or even something else, start by having the ECU read for stored fault codes. Post the codes and their descriptions here along with a detailed description of your symptoms. We’ll be happy to try to help you from there. The fault code will be a chassis code, probably somewhere between C0035 and C0245.

Post back.

Once you have the codes, you can have the sensors inspected if they are bolt-on units. The cables will be obvious if they are disconnected. I just looked up the sensors, and they bolt on. They aren’t cheap at $270 each retail, but better thana new wheel hub if the sensor is needed. They can also be cleaned if needed.

Rock Auto has them for $107 to $139 each depending on brand. You will need to get the ABS codes read to see if any of them are bad and I don’t know of any place that does that for free.

With some Toyotas (my 1995 Avalon, for example), one can read the code by connecting two terminals in the DLC2 connector and observing the flashing pattern of the ABS light. I lucked out: Code 3-1 indicated a right front wheel sensor. I’ll be getting a new one from Rock Auto.

If you’re going to clean the sensor (didn’t work for me), use some penetrating oil fo free it up (assuming you have a dirty or faulty sensor). These can be a b*tch to remove, and they break- mine was plastic .

And like anothe poster said: Be leery of a used part. What would happen if the ABS was triggered when you didn’t need it? Many of us have been driving without them. My Avalon just happened to have it- I would have bought the car without (it was an option on the XL)

That’s a good idea, but I doubt it’ll work on a relatively new vehicle

That won’t work on a 2007. Beginning in 1996 all vehicles sold in the U.S. must have OBDII systems, and they won’t work that way.