Yes, the first oil change and inspection is the most crucial of them all because the car has a break in period.You should do the first oil change much sooner than what is instructed in the owner’s manual. Then you should do it again after the run-in period ends. Most experts consider the first 500 miles as a reasonable and sufficient break-in period.
If it was in my basement, it would likely become a graveyard of spiders.
The oil change interval is determined by time or mileage whichever happens first. My 2019 F-150 just had it’s it’s 2nd oil change, it has under 6000 miles on it. In my case, and I imagine your case as well, we’re coming up to the chronological interval rather than the distance based interval. It’s perfectly normal.
It will pick up dust and other impurities, obviously it won’t suffer from heat damage
An engine is not an open container.
True, but how do you explain moisture intrusion into brake fluid or motor oil? It takes a while for air to seep past gaskets and o-rings, but it will. Rust never sleeps, and nothing else in nature does either.
water being a byproduct of combustion and a blown head gasket are two quick ones that I can think of for motor oil
Just bought a new snowblower today. I want a single stage as it is easier to do the whole block with the 2 stage than try and turn it around at lot lines. (Yes @bing the tire is still holding air on the snowblower!)
I called a local great place for an Ariens and asked if they had any single stage in stock or when they were expecting them. I don’t know the story, but he said they may not get any at all, or if they did it would not be till the end of November.
My 89 would run 5 minutes and die, and not restart until cold. some electrical something or other that would cost big bucks to replace, other issues also.
Panic mode! So I looked online and Lowes had 1 in stock, probably last years model, but I care not. Got it put together and running.
After reading the manual the suggestion was to pull the starter rope until pressure as the valves would then be closed, and that will prevent moisture from getting into the combustion chamber.
Open valves can evidently allow moisture contamination.
Congratulations. Hope the single stage works out. Now first thing, take the wheels off and put anti-seize on them in case you get a flat.
I guess a single stage doesn’t really have those kinds of wheels though.
@Barkydog I bought an MTD single stage snowblower at Walmart 20 years ago. It is still going strong. It has a two stroke engine that always starts right up. Being lazy, I buy premixed 50:1 fuel for the engine.
The MTD snowblower replaced a little one stage lightweight snow blower I bought for my dad back in 1977. We had a blizzard back in 1978 and that little Toro got a workout. When my parents moved into a retirement community, I inherited the snowblower. Twenty years ago, I couldn’t get it started. I found that it had no spark. Since it had an ignition module instead of points and condenser, I took it to a repair shop. The shop determined that it had no compression as well as no spark, and was not worth repairing. The technician commented “Was this machine used commercially? Nobody wears out a snowblower around here”. I thought about my Dad. He not only did his own driveway and sidewalk, but he went around his neighborhood plowing out his neighbors. He wore that snowblower out.
I’m on my 3rd one. Got about 50 hours on it. Changed belts, waxed, and prepped it in the Spring so I’m all set.
Yes, no need to yell. I understand it is a slight diversion but how long can you talk about whether to change oil in a new car when it says you only have two days left before self-destruction. I mean the answer is short and simple: “yes, a month ago”. Happy motoring or engining.
But then again when you think about it, isn’t a hijack comment the same as a hijack itself? Asking for a friend.
Back to cars. My 2006 Chevrolet Uplander had an algorithm in the computer that computed the oil life remaining display. Short winter trips caused the display to indicate a shorter engine oil life than long, open road trips in the summer. In the winter, I would have to change oil at 5000 miles. In the summer on long trips, the oil would have a life of 10,000 miles. In my cars in the days before oil life indicators, I changed the oil after fewer miles elapsed in the winter than in the summer.
The 2011 Sienna that I used to own and my present 2017 Sienna only requires oil be changed at 10,000 miles. On the 2011 Sienna, the service engine indicator came on at 5000 miles. I took them Sienna to the dealer and was told that Toyota had revised the oil change interval from 5000 miles to 10,000 miles. Two.weeks later I received a letter from Toyota stating that the oil change interval had been extended. I discussed this with the service manager at Toyota. He said that with the synthetic oil and cleaner running engines that Toyota felt comfortable extending the interval. I assume that since the 2006 Chevrolet Uplander that I owned did not specify synthetic oil and hence the algorithm that computes the oil life that remains. Apparently, Toyota thinks that algorithm is unnecessary.
My son now owns both the 2006 Uplander and the 2011:Sienna. The Uplander is still running well with 250,000 miles and the 2011 Sienna is going strong at 150,000.miles. I think the engineers know what is best.
My guess, it isn’t absolutely needed; but probably in your best interest to have it done anyway. Make sure oil of the proper oil spec is used, & keep the dated receipts with the mileage written on them.
Back in the old days, I changed oil after only 1000 miles in winter months when I only made short trips. As a graduate student living on an assistantship that only paid $200 a month and driving an old car, changing oil was cheap insurance ton prolong the life of the car.
Times have changed, but I still think following the guidelines in the owner’s manual for oil changes and realizing that short trips around town is severe service makes sense.
I had a room mate for a short time that was a mechanical engineer. He always talked about the importance of a stress factor in designs. I forget what they call that factor today but is essentially a fudge factor to take into account errors, manufacturing tolerances, omissions, unforeseen circumstances etc. So I look at the oil indicator but I change at 50% as my individual fudge factor. Figure it costs me maybe $100 a year.
The master cylinder has a vent to prevent a vacuum from forming as the pads wear down causing the calipers to store more brake fluid.
The engine is also vented, but after the air filter so some moisture could get in there even when the engine is not running. But that moisture does not cause the oil to break down, it just goes to the bottom of the pan and when the engine is run, at least run for at least 20 minutes, it evaporates.
I just can’t shut up. I had a third of a container of wood glue that had gone bad so bought a new container. Someone, a woodworker or something, said the air will still infiltrate through the plastic container regardless so just plan on throwing it away every couple years. Use it or lose it I guess but I always thought a plastic glue bottle would keep the air/moisture out. Guess not. Storing it upside down doesn’t help.