98 Honda accord coupe 3.0 not starting

I have checked the fuel lines from the tank all the way to the injectors how do i check the injectors but when i messed with the wires and cap it had a more powerful start then before that’s why im gonna replace the distributor

Checking for missing teeth at the timing chain is not “Checking Timing” the timing marks must be aligned to see if it jumped a tooth.

Oil in the distributor, means that you have a bad seal on the distributor shaft. This should be an easy fix if you have the knowledge and tools.

Because when you pushed the schrader valve in and nothing (gas ) came out, you are not getting gas. Either the fuel pump relay is bad…the wiring to the pump has a problem…or the pump is bad.

I still think that if you fix the fuel problem you will eliminate the major problem and can tackle the distributor seal after you know it runs.

Yosemite

I have replaced the fuel main relay and checked to make sure the fuel pump is working hooked two wires two the positive and negative then hooked it to the negative and blue positive of the pump and it makes the zing noise like it works

Where did you hook these wires up at, back at the gas tank or at the main relay socket? If you jumped the relay socket and heard the pump run, then you should check the fuel line for fuel. If you have fuel at that time, the engine should start, at least for a few seconds.

If you run a separate power wire to the socket and the pump runs, but does not run when you jump the socket, then power is not getting to the main relay and you have to trouble shoot from there.

I would not waste any money on a new distributor at this time. If you have oil inside the distributor, then eventually it will need to be replaced, but if the oil is leaking around the outside of the distributor, then you only need a $3 O-ring (dealer price) and about 10 minutes to replace it.

@cj28‌

You need to use a multimeter, or at the very least, a test light, to make sure the fuel pump is getting power when you try to start the vehicle

I am in complete agreement with the others. Diagnose and repair your fuel problem first.

Im trying to understand this. I put the wires to the fuel pump itself then to the battery. It will only start with starting fluid

Looks like you need to do either a fuel pressure test, or disconnect the fuel line at the rail and do a fuel flow test. You may be at the end of testing you can do yourself.

@cj28‌

The very first thing you need to do is check if the fuel pump is getting power and ground when attempting to start

No offense, but I don’t believe you’ve checked this yet

By providing your own power and ground, you’re actually skipping one of the first steps, which I just mentioned again

If it only starts with starting fluid, that sure sounds like lack of fuel, or insufficient pressure, is your problem

But you need to find the root cause, which might be a bad fuel pump, or lack of power and ground at the fuel pump

Again, you’re absolutely sure you’ve got enough fuel?

You’re going to have to be systematic, if you hope to fix the car in an efficient and hopefully inexpensive manner

If this sounds like lecturing, I apologize

I’m just explaining the best way I know

First I’d put 3 gallons of gas in the thing and try it to be sure there is enough fuel.
Maybe someone siphoned your gas.

Next I’d have someone turn the key while you hold your ear to the tank. See if it’s humming.
If not you’ll have to check the voltage at the plug that supplies power to the pump.

If you have power and the pump runs then…find a friend with a fuel pressure gauge and test the pressure.

If the pump runs and you still have no pressure…the pump is bad. The motor may be spinning, but not the impeller???

You are not following everyone’s advice and you are skipping half the testing that people recommend.

Yosemite

Ok i will borrow a tester or pull a hose off the fuel rail to see if gas is coming out. Im trying to do my best here

Any suggestions to get the hose off the fuel rail its hard to pull off

Give it a twist first, then use the flat side fo a flat screwdriver to push it off, don’t pull.

I get the sense OP that you are foundering a bit. Do you have a service manual of some kind to reference which applies to the make, model & year of your vehicle? Every car is a little different in what needs to be done and in what order. Doing what you are attempting is problematic at best without the ability to reference a good service manual. For example, on my Corolla, the service manual says the fuel rail must be depressurized using a special procedure before removing the fuel hose feeding the rail. It’s both for function and personal safety.

Are you following all the common sense recommendations experienced shops use when working with gasoline? Do you have the correct type/size of fire extinguisher on hand and know it works?

"Any suggestions to get the hose off the fuel rail its hard to pull off "

A high pressure fuel line connector is disconnected in a specific way. Some require a special tool. If it’s hard, you’re not doing it right. It’s probably time to get this car to a shop.

Who replaced fuel pump?Take the fuel filter off and see if you have pressure there when you turn the key to run.If not, the problem is in the tank,maybe the feed hose popped off.

If there is pressure, you need a filter.The filter is on the firewall under the hood.

The 1998 Accord fuel filter appears to be in the tank with the fuel pump module.

Fuel line should have a Banjo Bolt attaching it to the fuel rail.

There saying the fuel filter is not serviceable on this car i have looked everywhere for it no luck. I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit its in the trunk right behind the seat easy to locate and do.

You just replaced them or you did this before the problem. If it was before, you might check to see if the wires did become unplugged. The new pump might be defective.