98 Honda accord coupe 3.0 not starting

I agree with keith about 10 minutes of cranking running a battery down to dead. That is also tough on the starter motor.
Just an FYI but one should never spend 5 or 10 minutes cranking on an engine that won’t start.

If it won’t fire up quickly it’s time to just step back, take a deep breath, and sort out the cause of the no-start.
Going back to the question; have you verified beyond all doubt that there is fuel pressure at the fuel rail?

I don’t have a fuel pressure tester.

If your battery is more than 5 years old, get a new one. Try to start it with starting fluid sprayed into the air intake. If it runs then stops, fuel isn’t reaching the injectors (agreeing with your “no fuel pressure at the rail”) OR the injectors aren’t pulsing. You’ll then know it’s a fuel problem and not the distributor. And repeating others: do not keep grinding the starter if it doesn’t start within 5 seconds.

I’m at a bit of a loss here considering the situation. You can try insightful’s suggestion about spraying a flammable into the intake tract to see if it will run for a few seconds.

You might post back with the results of that test and please use care when doing it. You do not need to spray much of anything flammable in there; just one healthy shot is all.

If it starts and runs for a few seconds then we need to figure out why there is no fuel pressure or the fuel injectors are not pulsing.
Maybe a crank position sensor at fault and those can fail without setting a code.

10 minutes of cranking could drain most any battery, esp in cold weather. Batteries can be tested independent of the rest of the car using a “load test”. You might ask that be done so then you’ll know if you need a new battery or not.

There’s quite a few things that can cause the engine to crank but not start. Most of them, like fuel pressure, would require a good shop mechanic to check, too complicated for a beginning DIY’er.

But there are a couple things possibly you could check yourself, which could possibly be related to the symptom of the problem occurring while turning …

  • Sometimes a problem develops in the fuel tank evap system which creates a vacuum at the top of the tank, preventing fuel to flow to the engine. Turning could cause the fuel to slosh and splash around enough possibly to cause the symptom. Try cracking the fuel cap open a bit – just as a test , don’t drive it that way — to see if doing so allows the engine to start.

  • A wire may be getting pinched when you turn a corner, esp if the engine or transmission mounts are a bit loose. One wire which, in pinched, could cause this symptom is the wire to the crankshaft position sensor. Generally that would throw a diagnostic code, but it’s worth doing a visual check on the routing of the wire probably.

Edit: * And finally you could check the vacuum hose attached to the fuel pressure regulator (at the regulator) to see if there is any sign of gasoline in it. There shouldn’t be.

I will check it over this weekend because it is way to cold to look at it today . its sitting in my driveway I will keep u all updated on what’s going on thank you all for the responses and help.

While you are waiting for the weekend, get the battery charged again, but do not try to start the car, It is clearly not going to start. Save the juice for testing.

I don’t know your mechanical abilities or if you are getting some help from a friend or not, but you really need to follow the procedures I outlined earlier. If you don’t have a fuel pump tester and can’t rent or borrow one from a local parts store, then turn the key to the run position for a second or two, (not to start) then shut off the ignition. Disconnect the fuel hose from the injector rail and see if you get a squirt of gas.

Based on your previous posts, I kinda think your timing belt has skipped, but you will need to remove the upper timing covers to inspect this and I’m not sure this can be done without removing the upper half of the intake manifold.

When was the last time the timing belt was changed?

But the fact that the problem occurred intermittently while cornering suggests that the problem could be a wiring harness. This engine mounts transversely so I would not expect it to shift or rock much in a turn like a longitudinally engine might, but it would be worth looking at all wires going to the engine and look for a wire that has pulled out of its connector. This is really not too hard to do.

If you find one, then a check of the motor mounts would be in order because to cause enough movement to pull out a wire usually means a bad motor mount.

I know this sounds like silly question, but is there gas in the tank? I had a car where the fuel gauge failed and it always looked like the tank was half full. If the fuel level was low, going around a corner might move what was left of the gas away from the pickup and cause the engine to sputter. Unless you know for sure the tank has gas, like you just added gas to the tank, I would suggest putting a few gallons of gas in the tank and see if it will start.

Been there …done that…@hiker303; The wife’s car died and I had it towed, thinking it was the fuel pump. It ended up to be the fuel float. That $100 towing bill was for nothing.

I’d like to know exactly what the OP did as a test for no fuel pressure???


“I’d like to know exactly what the OP did as a test for no fuel pressure???”

Apparently, pushed on the fuel rail Shrader valve and nothing came out.

Maybe…But I’d like to know if that’s what he did or, put a fuel pressure gauge on it, or loosened a line, or did he do something else that wouldn’t tell you if you had fuel or not.
Just trying to be sure we eliminate the proper components!!!


im gonna look the car over tomorrow i have gotten my battery all set and fully charged for all the tests. im going to jack it up and check for loose wires unplugged wires or pinched wires. the only thing i see that has to do with fuel is a valve that looks like a tire pressure thing with a black cap on it i will take pictures tomorrow i also am going to take the timing cover off to check if the timing skipped or not


I asked OP about the fuel pressure gauge

They said they didn’t have one

So in my mind, any questions regarding fuel and fuel pressure have not been completely answered

Assuming the fuel pressure is not bleeding off due to a leaking fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump check valve, etc the OP could do a backyard test.

Turn the key on and off several times with the cap removed from the fuel pressure test port. Depress the Schrader valve with a matchstick, small screwdriver, or whatever.
If fuel dribbles out (and the first sentence being considered) there’s a lack of fuel issue.
If gas seems to spray out under considerable pressure then the lack of an injector pulse should be considered.

Regarding the latter, the pressure may not even be correct but the engine should run if there is a spark and the injectors are pulsing.

@CJ28 wrote on the 12th; “I tested the fuel pressure no fuel came out of it under the hood.”

How was this test performed???

WE still need to know what the test was that brought you to the above conclusion.

@CJ28 wrote on the 17th; "the only thing i see that has to do with fuel is a valve that looks like a tire pressure thing with a black cap on it ".

This is where you test the fuel pressure.


@CJ28 wrote on the 17th; "the only thing i see that has to do with fuel is a valve that looks like a tire pressure thing with a black cap on it ".

This is where you test the fuel pressure.

Unless it is an AC port!

The good news is you can’t hook up the fuel pressure gauge to the AC port

The only thing that would be similar in size would be the evap test port, but it has a green cap

I took off one of the timing covers to check the timing. No teeth are missing and its it the groves. I then took off the distributor cap under the distributor and around the cap there was oil. Pulled the plugs before i took the cap off to get access oil and fuel outta there finally got it to start right up with starting fluid but it dies i tried giving it gas it automatically dies. Does not start without starting fluid. I pushed on the fuel valve to see if fuel is coming out nothing comin out. So distributor rotor and cap will b replaced in 2 weeks when i get paid. Any input on this i would appreciate.


Refresh my memory . . . is the fuel pump getting power and ground?

If you are not getting fuel, why are you replacing the distributor? That does not make any sense. I would start checking the wiring to the fuel pump to see if it is getting power first.