98 Honda accord coupe 3.0 not starting

My Honda has 225 k miles has a new sending unit, fuel pump, main relay, ignition switch, and spark plugs. I cannot find the source of why my car will not start I replaced these things on my car due to car didn’t want start. Then it was fine every time I would turn a corner or drive it rpms would drop like I was running out ta gas then it would die now it will not start. I have checked all fuses. I have read in forums that this could take a lot of money to fix only because no one knows the source of why its not starting. I am a disabled female that is just trying too have a running vehicle and can’t figure out why it won’t start. It has a new battery but won’t hold a charge. Had charged it from my friends car for 25 minutes it gave it enough juice to put it in neutral and push it in the driveway with another car. Please someone help me.

Whoever jumped your car may not have made all strong connections with the cables, may not have realized that some cars are not putting out enough juice to supply more than their own needs at idle. A 6 amp battery charger should be inexpensive and do a much better job of charging your battery over a number of hours.
If you mean The fuel pump relay by “main relay” that could cause a no start. Don’t see how it could cause stalling on turns though.
A bad alternator could be draining your battery and cause you other symptoms too. If you can’t get the car started, the alternator could be taken off the car and tested.
Since you are a disabled female you may need someone who is better at diagnosis than whoever has been doing your work, you may have spent a lot of money replacing things that were not the problem and are no closer to fixing it.

All of those items that were replaced have nothing to do with a battery that won’t hold a charge and there may be more than one problem.

A new battery going dead overnight points to an excessive parasitic current draw caused by …?

Assuming the no-start means the engine will crank but it will not run you really need to check for an ignition spark. This means removing a plug wire from one of the spark plugs and testing for spark with an old spark plug or a spark tester.

It’s very difficult to offer even any half specific advice due to lack of information.

Since all of us don’t have a lot of info to go on…I will proceed by going with the most common failures seen in Honda’s from this point onward. It looks like someone was throwing parts at this vehicle…I say this because the list tells me that they covered many of the more common Honda fail points after Age and Mileage become a factor.

OK SO…The NO START is the most pressing issue I’m sure…
You need to check for spark or lack thereof…
The NO START issue you are having needs to be looked into the basic way. Have an assistant crank the engine over while one of you pulls a spark plug wire and insert a Screwdriver into the end…see if you have SPARK. It needs to be a nice bright BLUE spark…Not a weak ORANGE spark…YES IT MATTERS.
OK…so assuming you have NO SPARK… You need to See if your TIMING BELT IS STILL Doing its job…if it has snapped…you have much bigger problems…among them NO Spark. If T belt is still good…check the ignition coil similar test as spark plug. Not sure if this vehicle has the coil INSIDE the distributor or if it has an External Coil.

DISTRIBUTOR FAILURES ARE ONE OF THE MOST COMMON CAUSES OF NO START in Accords and other Hondas in general after Age and mileage have been accumulate. If you have an internal coil distributor with an Orange or ZERO SPARK…I looks like it would be time to replace the distributor. It could really be that simple. The distributor failures are so common on these vehicles that I always keep a known working one carefully packaged in one of my shop drawers for quick swap out and tests… I’ve replaced A LOT of failed distributors. BEST place to buy is ONLINE from Ebay…You will pay HALF or LESS than anything local. Just an FYi

Battery Drain Test for Alternator:
Like OK44 said the Alternator is a common culprit for a dead batt overnight… You will need a few tools to play around with this yourself. A Batt charger at the bare minimum…a volt meter or Multi-Meter as they are called these days…

To test the Alternator first you need to charge the battery. Measure batt voltage prior to charging or while “Dead” and then also afterward when you remove the charger. After charging, put your hand on the Alternator to see if it is WARM…if so…you found your batt Drain source.

The other and more accurate method is after the batt is charged…DISCONNECT the large wire going to the back of the Alternator usually held on with a 12mm nut. BE CAREFUL with the end of this wire…it has Constant 12v and MUST NOT be allowed to touch metal as it will ground out Sparking greatly…This is a NO NO. So tape the end or secure it somehow. SO now you have a charged battery and a Disconnected alternator… Let car sit overnight… Next day measure batt voltage…and it should be very close to the voltage when you removed the batt charger.

Well…I just wrote you a BOOK to read because I was bored. Let us know the results of your tests so we have more to go on here…as we really did NOT have much. The more we know the more direct out advice can get on here. These guys collectively know their stuff…but all of us need INFO. Anyway…Hope my shop manual I just wrote guides you in some sort of fruitful direction.


I have checked for spark and it has a blue spark it wants to start but tries and fails. If you turn the key it will turn over but not start

Check that the fuel pump is working. To do this, remove the gas cap and put your ear to the filler.
While you do this, have a friend turn the key to the "Run"position (Run not start) for two seconds and then off, and have them repeat this a few times. You should hear a humm of the fuel pump running. It will only run for a second or two each time…not constantly.

If you can hear the pump…it is running, but this does not insure that you have proper fuel pressure though…just that the pump does work.

If you hear nothing, then the pump, fuel relay or wiring may be the problem.


Yes you hear the fuel pump hum from the gas door with the cap off

So should I replace the distributor or what cause when it was running I tested the fuel pressure no fuel came out of it under the hood.

“I tested the fuel pressure no fuel came out of it under the hood.”
If that’s the case, and you’re sure you had power to the pump to test it, than why would you replace the distributor?

“every time I would turn a corner or drive it rpms would drop like I was running out ta gas then it would die”
To me this strongly suggests that it’s a fuel delivery problem. Problem is, there are numerous possible causes including a broken motor mount that allows movement of the engine to affect the fuel lines somehow or their linkage, or stuff sloshing around in the fuel tank that’s intermittently plugging the pickup tube sock. I see you’ve had your fuel pump replaced already, so I’d go looking for something interfering with the feed.

Since you seem to have a parasitic drain as well (battery discharging), you’ll also need to address this, but until you’ve confirmed that you have appropriate fuel supply I’d put that one aside and chase it after.

Have you checked all, and I mean ALL, fuses? Note there’s a boatload of them involved in the operation of the engine managment system. See Figure 4 and enlarge it.


I don’t mean this in a sarcasatic way at all so please don’t take it as such but a lot of problems like this often have a simple cause. It’s easy to overlook something trivial while expecting something much worse.
It can be one of those can’t see the forest for the trees moments; and I’ve had a few of them when things are piled up, pressure is on, and the mind is trying to process 2 dozen things at once… :smiley:

I suggest fuses because I’ve seen cars in the past that had a lot of money spent on them chasing a problem when the cause was a lowly 25 cent fuse.

I have checked the fuses on the driver, passenger, and some under the hood

With a spark and assuming no timing belt issue along with good fuel pressure, the more likely suspect at this point is the distributor as mentioned by Honda Blackbird.
What about the Check Engine Light? Any codes set?

So even with no fuel coming out of the valve on the fuel rail. Your still leading to the distributor OK what happens if I replace the distributor and the car still doesn’t start

When a tester is hooked up to the car its saying bad speed sensor open/closing and anti lock system malfunction

My assumption, right or wrong, is that fuel pressure was good based on your comment about the pump being replaced and hearing it run.
Of course if there is no fuel pressure I need to back up from the dist. for now.

Has the fuel pressure, or lack of, been tested?

The speed sensor and ABS system issues should not cause a no-start problem.

Basically it comes down to four things; air/fuel, compression, spark, and timing. You have spark. We assume you have fuel but you will need to put a fuel pump tester on the fuel rail and turn on the pump to be sure. I don’t see where the fuel filter was replaced, but don’t replace it yet.

Now for compression and timing. These two are related. The distributor is driven by one of the cams, so about the only way it would get out of time is if the timing belt skipped a few teeth. If that happened, the valve timing would be off as well and compression would be affected.

I’d start with a fuel pump pressure test, the engine doesn’t need to run for this. If the engine has timing marks on it for a timing light, then that is the next test I would do. If the timing is off significantly, replace the timing belt. If the engine does not have timing marks, you could see if you can remove the upper timing belt covers without removing the valve covers. I don’t know about the V6 engine but on the I4, you have to remove the valve cover first. On a V6, you have to remove the top half of the intake manifold to remove the valve covers.

If you can’t check the timing, either with a light or by checking the belt, try a compression test. If the belt slipped very far, the compression would be reduced in every cylinder.

The 6 cylinder it saying there’s no fuel filter. Updated news. I had my battery fully charged from advanced auto for 3 hours came home tried installed it then tried to start it a couple times within 10 minutes the battery is dead

They said my battery is good so what could cause the battery to lose juice so quick. Omg

If Advanced tested the battery after charging it and it passed, then I’m afraid you will need to get this car to an automotive electrician. If you cranked for a total of ten minutes, that could kill the battery, but if it was only a couple of cranks during a 10 minute period, you have a serious problem.

An electrician may find it quickly and save you a lot of money, or it could take quite a while and cost more.

Thanks that just made me feel oh so not positive about this car. Anyone live in Michigan around warren area electrician that can help me. I don’t have a lot of money to spend and need my car up and running