No the head lights come onwhen I turn them on and the interior lights come on when the doors open like every other car but when I turn the key there is no power to the radio or the dashboard
Knfenimore is that fuse(h) found with the relays under the hood or with the fuses inside of the car under the steering column?
@cougar, that was “The Hunt for Red October” and I may just watch that tonight. Thanks for the hint.
We’re trying to eliminate a few things here @jmipana. Let me reword this.
Forget the headlights and dome lights!!!
I want to know if the lights…ie; brake, check Engine, battery light, air bags etc. go through their cycle at all, when you first turn the key to “:Run”. Once they go through their cycle, they should go off within 5-10 seconds. This is the computer testing some systems.
Do they go through this cycle!!!
Yosemite
On my Corolla the headlights and the interior lights will both come on even with the key out of the ignition completely. This continues to sound like a faulty ignition switch or fuse.
I agree with you @GeorgeSanJose. We still haven’t heard back form the OP with the results from testing the ignition switch wires using a voltmeter. I suspect he will find a lack of voltage getting to the switch due to a blown fuse under the hood or a bad connection between the two points.
@Yosemite, I hope you enjoyed watching the movie again. Remember, “one ping only”.
There is a 30 amp fuse listed as “h” that provides power to the switch.
Yosemite it dosent go through that cycle at all i get nothing when i turn the key
And for the voltometer test i dnt have one so ive been looking around for one i could use cause those things are expensive
Do you have a Harbor Freight in your area? They sell cheap versions for $10 and up.
So basically…everything was FINE…till you left the key on for 5 hrs and ran the battery down to NADA?
Just because the battery has VOLTAGE…it doesn’t mean it is sufficiently healthy to run the vehicle. If you have a volt meter…test the voltage while you have the headlights turned on. Also…see what result you get after you hook up another vehicle…or a jump pack to your current battery.
The issue lies somewhere either with the battery, the batt connections or the ignition switch. I would check all the above. I have ZERO luck with batteries…they have NOT BEEN MY FRIENDS basically since they started going DEAD and then LEAKING ACID into all of my toys as a child…and even a few after I got older…LOL
Try a using a Jump and see what happens when you have that additional power. Let us know what you get at that time… The ignition switch SHOULD BE OK… I don’t have ANY faith in the battery that got run down to Zero…many X they do NOT recover properly after something like that…at least if it was My Battery IT WOULDN’T
I’d have my parts store check the battery on a carbon pile tester. If it’s good they will usually recharge them for free. Let them do a deep charge on it and pick it back up the next day.
Before hooking anything up, be sure that the cable ends and the battery posts are clean.
Battery connections are the first place to begin when you have a “No Crank” situation. Even
if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be
allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. The connection may be
enough to turn on the lights, but not enough for the huge flow that is needed to operate the
starter. This is where many people say that they know the battery is good….”because the
lights come on”. This is no more a battery test than licking a 9volt battery. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.
Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem.
First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. There is a tool with a round wire brush for this purpose, found at any auto parts store for less than $10 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kd-tools-terminal-battery-brush-kdt201/25980576-P?searchTerm=terminal+brush.
Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast.
It is just as important that the other end of the cables also have a clean connection. Remove the positive cable from the battery again so that you do not short anything out. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and retighten these connections.
If there was work done recently, there may have been an “engine to body” ground that was not installed following the work. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them.
Remember….this is not a “Sherman Tank” don’t over tighten the connections.
Tight…tight………………too tight…broke!!!
Yosemite